Having as many large breed dogs as I do I go through a lot of water, winter or summer, it doesn't matter, five Newfoundlands drink a lot! The summer months are not quite as bad outdoors as I use the dishes that hook up right to the hose so the dogs always have water which makes it much easier than lugging buckets outside as I do in the winter months. However inside the house, I can still go through nearly five or more gallons of water in just the bedroom alone for three to four dogs , then there are the water dishes in the kitchen and the family room that need to be filled constantly. Yes , Yes I know , some of the water ends up in the jowls of the Newfs then lands on the floor around the bowl, but I do like to think they are actually drinking most of it and my exercise back and forth to the kitchen sink is not in vain.
So to try and eliminate the need of constantly filling up at least one bowl daily, I chose the bowl in the bedroom to replace with a product called the critter cooler when its advertisement found its way into my email . Initially when I viewed it online I saw nothing more than a glorified five gallon bucket that was selling for about 99 dollars. Yes it had a few extras, such as the dishes on the side (ordered separately) , and the little bug traps that keep ants out of the water, sturdy wheels that could be locked and unlocked for easy movement and stability, as well, it had a drain plug on the inside of the dish in case the water got dirty. Now this is a big plus here in Newfy land as dishes are always being cleaned of drool and dirt!
Okay no matter how you look at it though, 99 dollars is still a lot of money for a bucket! So initially I dismissed the whole idea. Then to my surprise it was on sale a few months later for only 79 dollars. A better price? Not really, not for a bucket, but at the time I had a few extra bucks and was getting rather weary from the constant battle of filling water dishes all day so I decided to give it a try. It also came with a money back guarantee if not completely satisfied.
When it arrived at my door I could not wait to fill it up just to see how long it would last through the day. There were instructions, which could be a bit confusing , but basically you could figure out most of it by looking at the pictures , no nuclear scientist needed here. Along with the directions came a CD describing the cooler and how to put it together. The paper instructions recommended highly that you watch the CD before putting it together. But I did not, therefore missing a few helpful hints like, not to carry it by the handle when it was filled with water as the handle was not strong enough to hold the fully filled bucket (hence the wheels for rolling it), or that you should give the lid one little extra 1/2 turn before opening the valve that let the water from the bucket to flow into the dish. So, after cleaning up a lot of spilled water I decided to watch the video!
Fifteen minutes later, stupidity aside, I had finally set up my critter cooler just exactly as it was shown in the video.
Pros: when it works, it's great! It holds a lot of water and can be cleaned of drool and dirt easily by turning off the spigot and pulling the drain plug. Wiping it clean with a paper towel is all it took. The wheels made it easy to move around and locked in place as well. I only had to fill it once in a 12 hour period!
cons: When it does not work correctly you are going to find water all over the floor. I do not recommend filling the bucket, setting it on the floor, opening the spigot and then walking away. Make sure the water stops flowing at the right point, if not you'll have to close the spigot and figure out where you went wrong. For a few days, after watching the video twice, and contacting the company regarding the problem, it sat in my bathtub until I was sure that when filled it would stop and not overflow to the floor. Once I felt more confident, meaning that I had filled it several times while it was still in the bathtub and it was working correctly, only then did I put it back on the bedroom floor. Unfortunately there were still several times over the next two weeks that it overflowed making a mess of my wood floor and I wished I had not thrown out the box in which it came so I could send it back.
However, that being said, since I do take Chance and Steeler to a lot of all day outdoor events for SART I figured it could be used for that purpose without the worry of my floors being ruined.
When spring finally sprung this year and my hose and automatic water dishes were still in the basement I did place the Critter Cooler out on my deck and it worked most of the time. But I still would not chance it inside the home. So unless I use those great locking wheels for other purposes, I'd have to give it a two paws down for the money. I think the inventor would have done better if he had figured out a way to use a float device to keep it from overflowing.
website http://www.critterconcepts.com/faq.php?cID=1
video
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1069899/automatic_dog_water_bowl_critter_cooler_www_critterconcepts_com/
Everything Dog
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Friday, May 29, 2009
Dog products~ Flea and tick drops
Recently ABC news aired a segment about over the counter flea and tick spot on products. The reviews were not good and sited many health problems from dogs acting nervous to the actual death of dogs. The symptoms vary from dog to dog. For the most part the product makers say it is the way the public applies the product to the dog, either putting the wrong amount on , using a dog product for a cat, or combining two products together, etc. Nothing they mentioned is new to the pet owners who have been complaining for years but are only now getting noticed since our pets are becoming such a big part of our lives.
Pet health care has always been a bit on the expensive side and let's face it , if a vet tells you your dog needs something you say okay and figure out later where the money will come from. Who wants to jeopardize the health of a such a valued family member? How many of us seek second opinions?
My point being that when a company comes along with a seemingly cheaper over the counter product that mimics the expensive product we buy from a vet office, the main stream public will go for it almost without question ,as well ,we begin to question why our Vet may tell us to stay away from such a product, believeing that a monetary loss for the Vet may be a factor. The price and the availability of a product are usually in the fore front of our minds until we have actual proof that harm has come to someone we know or if it is publicized on the news.
Some of you know I have been working part time answering dog questions for a few years now and I can't express enough how many questions are about reactions to an over the counter flea medication, some with not such great endings.
In the event that you know of a friend that has put this type of medication on their dog and they tell you the dog is acting abnormally, tell them to wash the dog with mild dish soap, ( dawn dish washing liquid has always been recommended) and rinse over and over again.
Below you will find the sites regarding the news reports and I would urge that you stick with proven methods of killing fleas and ticks to keep your pooch unharmed. While true there is a rare occasion that a few dogs will actually have an allergic reaction to almost any vet prescribed medication, it happens less frequently then when we use untested and unsafe over the counter products .
ABC news
http://www.mlive.com/living/grand-rapids/index.ssf/2009/05/unleashed_flea_and_tick_soluti.html
CBS News
http://cbs3.com/local/Spring.Fleas.Ticks.2.1009282.html
Bio spot testimonial and victims site
http://www.biospotvictims.org/
Pet health care has always been a bit on the expensive side and let's face it , if a vet tells you your dog needs something you say okay and figure out later where the money will come from. Who wants to jeopardize the health of a such a valued family member? How many of us seek second opinions?
My point being that when a company comes along with a seemingly cheaper over the counter product that mimics the expensive product we buy from a vet office, the main stream public will go for it almost without question ,as well ,we begin to question why our Vet may tell us to stay away from such a product, believeing that a monetary loss for the Vet may be a factor. The price and the availability of a product are usually in the fore front of our minds until we have actual proof that harm has come to someone we know or if it is publicized on the news.
Some of you know I have been working part time answering dog questions for a few years now and I can't express enough how many questions are about reactions to an over the counter flea medication, some with not such great endings.
In the event that you know of a friend that has put this type of medication on their dog and they tell you the dog is acting abnormally, tell them to wash the dog with mild dish soap, ( dawn dish washing liquid has always been recommended) and rinse over and over again.
Below you will find the sites regarding the news reports and I would urge that you stick with proven methods of killing fleas and ticks to keep your pooch unharmed. While true there is a rare occasion that a few dogs will actually have an allergic reaction to almost any vet prescribed medication, it happens less frequently then when we use untested and unsafe over the counter products .
ABC news
http://www.mlive.com/living/grand-rapids/index.ssf/2009/05/unleashed_flea_and_tick_soluti.html
CBS News
http://cbs3.com/local/Spring.Fleas.Ticks.2.1009282.html
Bio spot testimonial and victims site
http://www.biospotvictims.org/
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Dog product- Booster bath
Okay, so having seven dogs can get a bit expensive when it comes to grooming, so for Christmas I asked Santa (Peter) for a booster bath. Now, realistically I knew I may not be able to get the Newfies up a ramp and into a tub , but what I liked about the Booster Bath is that there is a drain at the bottom of the tub so it could be put directly on the floor in the basement over the drains that lead into the sump pump, thus releasing any water from the tub without having to put the legs onto the bath, thus ensuring that the dogs would just walk into the opening at the back of the tub without any problem. (yeah, right)
Okay , I admit I was a bit optimistic as they did not enthusiastically just walk into the opening in the back of the tub, but with a little pushing and prodding, six months later, they do go in a bit easier!
The pros of this tub is that it does keep the dog contained in one spot and the built in tethers keep them from hopping out even when the tub is on ground level. There is thick rubber padding that attaches to the floor to keep the dog from sliding. The tub can be left on the floor if you have a floor drain thus saving you the price of buying a ramp or steps. It is lightweight and easy to move as well as clean when needed. There is a nice little attachment that holds the shampoo which keeps you from cursing like you used to when you'd have to put the shampoo bottle on the floor or a table and it would tip over spilling out all its contents.
The Cons While the dog does stay contained, I found the tub a little too thin for a Newfoundland sized (and even a Golden Retriever sized) dog as the water would run off the dog's back and right over the sides of the tub onto the floor. The hose was a bit difficult to use and hook up, and you'll need to order the extra piece if you use your washing machine's hook up valves. The small inserts that hold the rubber padding down inside the tub did not stay very well thereby allowing for some water to go through the screw holes.
So the booster bath gets a one paw up and one paw down rating from me. If I keep a Shop Vac handy and bathe them really quickly there's not too much of a mess. If on the other hand they are really dirty and need a good thorough cleaning, well it's better to wait for warmer weather and give them a bath outside!
Here is a site for the booster bath if you want to check it out.
http://www.petco.com/product/12208/Paws-for-Thought-Booster-Bath.aspx
Okay , I admit I was a bit optimistic as they did not enthusiastically just walk into the opening in the back of the tub, but with a little pushing and prodding, six months later, they do go in a bit easier!
The pros of this tub is that it does keep the dog contained in one spot and the built in tethers keep them from hopping out even when the tub is on ground level. There is thick rubber padding that attaches to the floor to keep the dog from sliding. The tub can be left on the floor if you have a floor drain thus saving you the price of buying a ramp or steps. It is lightweight and easy to move as well as clean when needed. There is a nice little attachment that holds the shampoo which keeps you from cursing like you used to when you'd have to put the shampoo bottle on the floor or a table and it would tip over spilling out all its contents.
The Cons While the dog does stay contained, I found the tub a little too thin for a Newfoundland sized (and even a Golden Retriever sized) dog as the water would run off the dog's back and right over the sides of the tub onto the floor. The hose was a bit difficult to use and hook up, and you'll need to order the extra piece if you use your washing machine's hook up valves. The small inserts that hold the rubber padding down inside the tub did not stay very well thereby allowing for some water to go through the screw holes.
So the booster bath gets a one paw up and one paw down rating from me. If I keep a Shop Vac handy and bathe them really quickly there's not too much of a mess. If on the other hand they are really dirty and need a good thorough cleaning, well it's better to wait for warmer weather and give them a bath outside!
Here is a site for the booster bath if you want to check it out.
http://www.petco.com/product/12208/Paws-for-Thought-Booster-Bath.aspx
Saturday, May 23, 2009
dog health- heat stroke-know the signs
Warmer and more humid weather has been a trend here in PA the last few years. It seems we go from winter, to a week of spring, then it jumps right into summer! I have noticed this more over the years because of my dogs having to be kept cooler earlier and longer in the spring and summer months. Mild winters have also been a challenge as it brings fleas and ticks out sooner than normal.
At the same time that Bentley bloated last year he also suffered from heat stroke. His temperature was 107 when I brought him to the vet, high enough to do long term damage to major organs. This all happened within fifteen minutes of being outside during the begining of a thunderstorm that was still miles away from our area!
Usually it is the humidity that causes more problems than the heat itself as dogs can't cool themselves efficiently. Their sweat glands are on the paws and nose so running around does not allow the sweat glands on the paws work as they should. Heat exhaustion is the body's way of trying to protect itself from loss of body fluids and salts.
Symptoms of heat exhaustion are heavy breathing/panting, and the skin inside the ears becomes flushed and red. Heat exhaustion may be taken care of by spraying the dog with a cool water bottle and placing him in front of a fan or putting the dog in air conditioning.
Heat exhaustion can quickly turn to heat stroke if the dog is not brought to a cooler area.
Symptoms of heat stroke Rapid panting, bright red tongue, red or pale gums, weakness, becomes wobbly/uncoordinated, vomiting, diarrhea, shock, and the body temperature reaches 105 or better. (Normal body temperature for dogs is 100.5 to 102.5.)
Use cool water not cold water as cooling the body too rapidly can cause other life threatening medical conditions. For very small dogs you will want to use luke warm water. Put the dog in front of a fan or in air conditioning. Do not immurse the dog in a tub of cool water and leave him in there as the dogs fur and skin will warm the water near the skin in effect make the body temp rise. Once the dog has been immursed in cool water you want to remove him, and check the temp. You want air to get to the body once you have used cool water so it can evaporate off of the dog. Make sure to get the belly and inner thighs. Check the temperature every five minutes and once it starts to go down stop the cooling process and dry the dog off but continue to monitor the temperature. Once the temp starts dropping continuing a cooling process can actually drop the temp too much causing more damage. When the temp starts dropping bring the dog to a vet.
Forcing the dog to drink water does not really help with the core body temperature, giving a few laps or spraying with a water bottle to keep the tongue and gums moist can help, but if you force him to drink and he drinks too fast you risk bloat as well as the dog inhaling it into the lungs.
At the same time that Bentley bloated last year he also suffered from heat stroke. His temperature was 107 when I brought him to the vet, high enough to do long term damage to major organs. This all happened within fifteen minutes of being outside during the begining of a thunderstorm that was still miles away from our area!
Usually it is the humidity that causes more problems than the heat itself as dogs can't cool themselves efficiently. Their sweat glands are on the paws and nose so running around does not allow the sweat glands on the paws work as they should. Heat exhaustion is the body's way of trying to protect itself from loss of body fluids and salts.
Symptoms of heat exhaustion are heavy breathing/panting, and the skin inside the ears becomes flushed and red. Heat exhaustion may be taken care of by spraying the dog with a cool water bottle and placing him in front of a fan or putting the dog in air conditioning.
Heat exhaustion can quickly turn to heat stroke if the dog is not brought to a cooler area.
Symptoms of heat stroke Rapid panting, bright red tongue, red or pale gums, weakness, becomes wobbly/uncoordinated, vomiting, diarrhea, shock, and the body temperature reaches 105 or better. (Normal body temperature for dogs is 100.5 to 102.5.)
Use cool water not cold water as cooling the body too rapidly can cause other life threatening medical conditions. For very small dogs you will want to use luke warm water. Put the dog in front of a fan or in air conditioning. Do not immurse the dog in a tub of cool water and leave him in there as the dogs fur and skin will warm the water near the skin in effect make the body temp rise. Once the dog has been immursed in cool water you want to remove him, and check the temp. You want air to get to the body once you have used cool water so it can evaporate off of the dog. Make sure to get the belly and inner thighs. Check the temperature every five minutes and once it starts to go down stop the cooling process and dry the dog off but continue to monitor the temperature. Once the temp starts dropping continuing a cooling process can actually drop the temp too much causing more damage. When the temp starts dropping bring the dog to a vet.
Forcing the dog to drink water does not really help with the core body temperature, giving a few laps or spraying with a water bottle to keep the tongue and gums moist can help, but if you force him to drink and he drinks too fast you risk bloat as well as the dog inhaling it into the lungs.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Dog health -Bloat - know the symptoms
As some may remember last year my Bentley went through bloat and I write this today even though bloat can happen at any time, because with the fast approaching warmer weather comes the threat of thunderstorms and with thunderstorms for some dogs comes the threat of anxiety or panic. If the dog hides in the closet or the tub and doesn't move much during a storm, chances are bloat will not be an issue. However if your large breed dog is like Bentley who will run the yard wildly, constantly bark and move about getting overheated from the anxiety, then start drinking water quickly to compensate for the overheating , there is the threat that the dog will take extra air , fluid, or foam into the stomach which cannot be expelled properly. Bloat , a twisting of the intestines , restricts any emptying of the belly which means the dog cannot vomit, or burp to relieve the gas buildup. You will see the stomach start to swell and feel hard, the dog will be dry heaving (classic sign), the dog may not respond to you when you call the name, excessive drooling, breathing problems ,restlessness , pacing, and discomfort will occur. All of the above signs together need immediate care so call the vet on your way there and tell them you think your dog is bloating so they can be prepared for your arrival. Bloat can take your dog's life in a matter of hours.
Bentley was indeed lucky to have come out unscathed as luck was on his side. Initially I was due to leave for a meeting when this happened and because I was knowledgeable enough to know what symptoms to look for and recognized them as soon as they started his life was spared. Had I not been home he probably would not have made it through.
Factors of bloat
1)The age of the dog can play a part in bloat, normally dogs that are five years or older,
2) hereditary factors are also concern,
3) feed smaller meals twice a day instead of one big meal a day.
4) It used to be thought that elevating the food dishes would help prevent bloat but this has recently been disproved by the Cornell study.
5)Do not exercise the dog 1/2 to 1 hour before or after feeding
and do not allow large intakes of water before and after a meal.
6)There are dog bowls that have cylinders in them to prevent a dog from eating too fast which is another cause of bloat so if your guy is a fast eater you may want to invest in one. Until you can get one, placing an unopened can of vegetables in the middle of the dog's dish can also slow down eating. dog bowls: http://www.brake-fast.net/
There is a way to make a bloat first aid kit , although you must be confident enough to be able to use it. http://www.kifka.com/Elektrik/BloatFirstAid.htm#kit
Here are great sites (video) on recognizing the signs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-AMhcQaGNE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwr9dVEG72w&feature=related
Bentley was indeed lucky to have come out unscathed as luck was on his side. Initially I was due to leave for a meeting when this happened and because I was knowledgeable enough to know what symptoms to look for and recognized them as soon as they started his life was spared. Had I not been home he probably would not have made it through.
Factors of bloat
1)The age of the dog can play a part in bloat, normally dogs that are five years or older,
2) hereditary factors are also concern,
3) feed smaller meals twice a day instead of one big meal a day.
4) It used to be thought that elevating the food dishes would help prevent bloat but this has recently been disproved by the Cornell study.
5)Do not exercise the dog 1/2 to 1 hour before or after feeding
and do not allow large intakes of water before and after a meal.
6)There are dog bowls that have cylinders in them to prevent a dog from eating too fast which is another cause of bloat so if your guy is a fast eater you may want to invest in one. Until you can get one, placing an unopened can of vegetables in the middle of the dog's dish can also slow down eating. dog bowls: http://www.brake-fast.net/
There is a way to make a bloat first aid kit , although you must be confident enough to be able to use it. http://www.kifka.com/Elektrik/BloatFirstAid.htm#kit
Here are great sites (video) on recognizing the signs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-AMhcQaGNE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwr9dVEG72w&feature=related
Thursday, May 21, 2009
speaking of products
I would not waste any money on the new Zero Odor , which claims to be breakthrough technology and costs a whopping $19.99 (plus shipping ) It definitely does not seem to work any better than other urine eliminating cleaners you can find in grocery stores. Personally I like the woolite white foam or the pet & stain remover as it leaves a clean smell to the room.
zero odor website :( http://www.zeroodorstore.com/
zero odor website :( http://www.zeroodorstore.com/
Dog hair de-matting tool
For all of you that have long haired or double coated dogs I wanted to share a great tool with you. Having five Newfoundlands I would not be without it! It is far superior to any de-matting tool I have ever had and I even recommended it to my groomer! The furminator has nothing on this tool and in fact I would give the furminator two thumbs down. The Mars Coat King is by far a tool every owner of long haired breeds should have in their grooming box. Having such a large breed I use a twelve wide, but here is a site that will help you pick the right size and tell you how to use it.
http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/grooming/marsguide.htm
You won't find this in a pet store, but dog catalogs such as pet edge will have it. It may seem a bit pricey, but well worth every Penny in getting out tangles and undercoat. Mine has lasted for three years, but it will soon be time to replace the blade. Of course I use mine on all my dogs so the use is pretty heavy! http://www.petedge.com/Mars-Coat-King-Strippers-ZC515.pro
http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/grooming/marsguide.htm
You won't find this in a pet store, but dog catalogs such as pet edge will have it. It may seem a bit pricey, but well worth every Penny in getting out tangles and undercoat. Mine has lasted for three years, but it will soon be time to replace the blade. Of course I use mine on all my dogs so the use is pretty heavy! http://www.petedge.com/Mars-Coat-King-Strippers-ZC515.pro
Monday, May 18, 2009
Training commands
Training Commands:(using clicker)
When giving commands you will always put the dogs name in front of the command. The only time you do not use his name first is when you tell him ‘no’. You do not want the dog to associate his name with a negative. The hand signals for training commands are generalized for a medium to large size dog, for a small dog you may have to start out kneeling on the floor so he can see the hand signals clearly.
Loading the clicker:
Call your dog’s name and as he gives you his attention click and treat. Repeat this several times until you no longer have to call the dog, but just the click gets his attention. When his attention turns to you each time you click, he is ready to begin. Should your dog be one of the few that does not usually respond to food as a reward then use his favorite toy instead. In this case you will click, praise and offer him his toy.
Eye contact:
Getting your dog’s eye contact is important for these reasons; it shows that the dog is paying attention to you and awaiting your next move, and it puts you in the dominant position. You want your dog to know that you are the leader.
If your dog is small enough, place him on top of a table and call his name. The moment he turns his eyes toward your face click and treat. If you have a larger dog, contain him in a small quiet room, such as a bathroom, so he has no other alternative than to stay and look at you. Repeat this process until you are sure your dog will make eye contact each and every time you call his name. Should your dog find it hard to give you eye contact which sometimes happens with a ‘fear aggressive’ dog, or a ‘fear submissive’ dog, show him the treat as you call his name, then slowly move the treat up and even with your eyes. If the dog follows the treat to you eyes or anywhere near your face, click and treat. Repeat this process until the dog is comfortable enough to look at your face. If your dog is ‘fear aggressive’ or ‘fear submissive’ it may take him longer to look at you, as both types of behaviors make the dog leery and he does not want a confrontation. Eye contact is a dog’s way of being challenged by an intruder.
Sit:
Sit is the easiest command to teach your dog but you must remember that it is a command that stands alone. Many people mistakenly say “Rover, sit down” The dog looks at you stupidly as if asking the question, “Do you want a sit or a down?” Sit and down are two different commands and should be used as such. At first you will not say anything to the dog. Hold the treat over his head until he is forced into the sit position by looking up at the treat. As soon as his bottom starts to hit the floor click and treat. Once he gets the idea that he must sit, make sure the next time that his bottom is planted firmly on the floor. Repeat this process adding his name and the command ‘sit’. (Example: Chance, Sit.) The hand signal/command for sit is simply raising your hand up from your waist to your chest area, palm facing up.
Use the vocal command and the hand command in conjunction when you first begin training. If your dog has trouble with a sit in an open area, try putting him as close to a wall as possible so as he backs up his only alternative is to sit.
Helpful hint: If you have your dog sit before feeding, petting, answering the door, or greeting you at the door, he will be less inclined to jump on people.
Release:
Whenever you teach a dog a command it is very important to also give a release command. This tells the dog that the command is over and he can go back to being his inquisitive self. You can use a short phrase such as the dogs name and ‘okay’ in a semi exited voice. (Example: Chance, okay!) Always remember to release the dog from a command. You will get longer stays if there is a release command.
Down:
Putting your dog in a down position may take a little more work. Dogs feel very vulnerable in the down position so it is important to take more time with this command.
While your dog is in the sit position, show him the treat and bring the treat down toward the floor near his front feet. As his nose follows the treat, drag the treat on the floor toward you and away from the dog. As he follows the treat his front legs should start to move down toward the floor, click and treat. Repeat this until you can get his whole body down on the floor. Once he has no problem with putting his whole body on the floor incorporate the command down. (Example: Chance, Down) Should your dog have trouble going down with just the clicker and treat, use the treat in conjunction with his leash. With his leash attached to his collar try pulling the leash down gently to the floor at the same time you are showing him the treat. Remember to click and treat the moment his body starts to hit the floor. The hand signal/command is done by starting with your right hand, palm down, just under your chest and bringing it down toward the floor ending just about waist level. Sometimes it is necessary to go lower, especially with a puppy, but once the dog understands the command completely , stopping at the waist should suffice.
Heel:
With the dog in a sit at your left side, the leash in your left hand being held close to the dog’s collar, hold the treat in your right hand in front of the dog’s nose. Hold the treat as close to your left leg as possible, preferably at the outer seam of your pants. Say the dog’s name and the command Heel. (Example: Chance, Heel) The dog’s head should be even with your left leg, he should not go ahead of you. Always start off with your left foot when you heel your dog. This will give the dog a visual cue as well as a verbal command. As the dog follows the treat, click, treat, and repeat the command in succession.
As a Therapy Dog, your dog must be able to heel weaving in and out of obstacles, so you’ll want to teach heel as close to your leg as possible. It may be helpful to teach heel in a narrow hallway at first. This will insure that the dog stays close to you and you’ll get a straight heel as opposed to his head being near your leg but his body way out in left field! When training heel you should make right turns and left turns. A right turn is the easiest as all you are doing is turning right and asking your dog to follow you. A left turn heel is a little more difficult for some people and this is why it is so important that your dog’s head not be in front of your leg or you will find yourself tripping over the dog. When making a left turn heel, say the word heel and swing your left leg out and in front of the dog, if he is in the right position he will just continue to follow you. If he is too far in front of your leg he will get a bop in the head as you bring your left leg in front of him. Most dogs pick this up quickly as two or three bumps in the noggin is enough for them to remember to stay at your side.
To get your dog to always heel properly and consistently continue making right turns, left turns, and about turns (turning all the way around in the opposite direction)during your training sessions. If the dog is not sure what is coming next he will surely watch your movements closely.
When you come to a stop, you will tell the dog to ‘sit’ by your left leg, both of you facing in the same direction. The hand signal/command for heel is simply tapping your left leg with your hand and stepping off with your left foot.
There are some dogs that when asked to heel, find it more enjoyable to grab a hold of the leash and play a game of tug of war. To help correct this problem, ‘before’ the leash is put on the dog, soak it down with Bitter Apple spray thereby making the leash an unpleasant item to grab. Should your dog be the rare exception and not mind the Bitter Apple taste then try peppermint breath spray or Tabasco sauce. You will have to repeat this as the leash will not hold those ingredients for more than a day. Don’t fret, this is not a life long daily process, as soon as your dog regularly stops trying to grab the leash as you walk, he has gotten the idea and you will no longer have to spray it.
Sit Stay:
Put the dog in a sit command at your left side. Holding the leash in your left hand put your right palm in front of his face and say the word stay. Pivot in front of your dog starting with your right foot. (Remember that if you use your ‘left’ foot the dog will get the visual cue of heel) Stand about one foot or less in front of him repeating the command stay. (Example, Chance, Stay) Wait only a few seconds at first, if he stays, click and treat. Gradually you will increase the distance between you and the dog and the amount of time of the stay. Try to always catch his good behavior in the stay command by clicking and treating before he has a chance to get up and break the stay. By catching and rewarding him in a stay you are setting him up for successful behavior and not failure. Should the dog break the stay, just say ‘oops’ in a non threatening tone, place him back in the initial spot in the sit position, and shorten the stay time. The hand signal for stay is placing your right palm in front of the dog’s face.
Down Stay:
Put the dog in the down position at your left side. Put your right hand in front of the dog’s face and give the stay command. Step off with your right foot. Again going only about a foot in front of him and repeating the command stay. Remember to click and treat for good behavior. Follow the above steps, gradually increasing the time and distance between you and the dog. The down stay position is the most difficult for the dog to perform as he feels very vulnerable and open to attack. Should he break the down stay, just say “oops” in a non threatening tone and start again at the place where the dog broke his down command. There should be no reason to use the collar correction in any stay command, however, once the dog is in the down position you may want to step on the leash to prevent him from getting up. This will only work if you are close to the dog but it is a start in getting a good stay. Holding the treat above your shoulder sometimes helps the dog remain in a stay command as his eyes are usually glued to the treat.
Wait:
What is the difference between stay and wait? The stay command means stay where you are until I release you. A wait command may be given if your hands are full of groceries and you are trying to get through the door before your dog pushes past you knocking all of the groceries to the floor! Another example of wait is if the dog is in the car and anxious to get out, for a visit, or for other reasons, that he starts pulling on the seat belt or pawing at the crate, you will give him the wait command to calm him down. Should you choose not to use either safety device in your car, you would give the wait command before you open the door so he doesn’t jump out into traffic! Wait is more of a brief pause meaning stop where you are for a minute or two. I use the wait command for the above but also when I visit places that want to take pictures. The wait command lets the dog know that they will be in that position for only a few minutes. To get my dog Chance to sit for a nice picture I want his head up, so I also use human sign language for the meaning of wait, which is taking your right hand, placing it at your left shoulder, palm facing your shoulder, and wiggle your fingers back and forth. By doing it this way Chance’s line of vision is on my shoulder bringing his head up for perfect picture taking! When the picture is over I bring my hand down and he knows the wait is over and he may get up. Of course if you are coming through the door with an arm full of groceries using sign language won’t work, so you will always verbalize the wait command. To teach wait, bring the dog to a quiet room, have the dog sit, face the dog and say the word wait while giving the hand gesture simultaneously. Keep him there for only a few seconds at first, then drop your hand and turn away from the dog. At this point your dog will wonder what’s going on, no click no treat? Call the dog to you and when he comes to you click and treat. By clicking after you turn around you are rewarding the whole behavior of waiting. If you click and treat after the two seconds the dog will think it’s okay to get up, when in reality you don’t want him under your feet until you call his name. Remember that bag of groceries I told you about? If you told the dog to wait while going through the door with your hands full and wait to the dog only meant to stay facing you for two minutes, you would never be able to continue through the door as the dog would constantly be moving forward to face you. So you want the dog to know wait means until you call his name. Repeat the above until you can increase the wait time for at least two to four minutes. Of course your dog does not have to be sitting; standing in place is fine also. Once you’ve mastered the command in a quiet place bring your dog to the door with the leash on and tell him to wait as you open the door. You will then walk through the door and only after you are completely out and a few feet away from the door do you call his name. Click and treat. Should the dog try to squeeze through the door as you open it, tell him no, put your foot on the leash and give the command wait, again. If the dog is still giving you problems when you open the door, because lets face it, that rabbit on the front lawn looks mighty tempting, try this, tell the dog to wait, slowly start to open the door, as his head starts stretching toward the door, quickly close it. Repeat this as many times as necessary, and always put him back in the same spot before you give the command again. Now I must admit that occasionally the dog will be faster at getting his nose to the door than you will be at closing it so be prepared for a few nose crunches! Just make sure the pressure you are using to close the door isn’t so hard that your dog will get hurt in the process. Keep in mind that your own fingers may feel that same crunch occasionally.Once you’ve mastered the door wait it is time to try it in the car. If you were paying attention in the beginning of the training chapter you will know that dogs do not always carry a command over from one place to another. If you have a garage it is best to start in there with the door closed for the dog’s safety. If you don’t have a garage, attach the twenty foot lead to the dog’s collar and close in or tether to, a car door that you will not be using. This insures that if the dog does bolt out he cannot run out into traffic. You will give the command wait before opening the car door, only after you have attached his six foot leash to his collar and called his name may he get out of the car. He may try to bolt out for the first few times and this is normal as he is in a new environment, but having first mastered the wait command in the house he should quickly catch on in the car as well. Just be sure not to use the closing of the car door tactic that you used with the house door as it may hurt too much and you can ruin him from ever wanting to go in the car again.
Stand:
Stand comes in handy when the dog needs to be groomed or examined by a vet. Start by putting your dog in a sit stay. Walk a few feet away and call him to you. Once he is in front of you place one arm under his belly near his back legs and the other arm under his neck grasping the collar. Give the command ‘stand’. (Example: Chance, stand.) Hold him there for only a few seconds at first, repeating the command, and clicking and treating as long as he is standing. Repeat this step until his stand gets longer. Do not forget to release him when the command is over. It may also help if while in the stand position, you hold the treat near his mouth and let him nibble on it as you repeat the command. The hand signal/command for stand is taking both hands, palms up and bring them from your waist to just under your chest. Of course you will not be able to use this signal until the ‘word’ stand is learned.
Targeting:
Targeting can help when your dog approaches a person in a wheelchair, or for approaching someone who is laid up in bed. By teaching him targeting eventually you can point to where you want the dog to put his head. Show the dog a treat being held in your ‘right’ hand, close your hand to make a fist surrounding the treat. Hold your right fist with the treat in it just a few inches from your dog’s nose and as your dog sniffs your hand to check out the smell of the treat, click and treat from your ‘left’ hand. After a few times, incorporate the command ‘Touch’. (Example: Chance, Touch) Once he is touching your hand on command, you can switch hands with the yummy the treat so he is never sure where the treat will come from but will happily oblige the command ‘touch’ to get one. Once he is touching both of your hands on command, incorporate other items, like a spoon, a book, a chair arm, etc. Use as many different items as you can find, especially items of different texture and size. Eventually you will point to where you want the dog to place his head while giving him the touch command. Then incorporate the stay command. Do this for only a few seconds at first as he is more likely going to look up at you for the treat. You can try holding the treat hand on the object you want him to stay on. Remember though, you must click before he has the chance to lift his head.
Come/Here:
If you purchased an older dog from the local pound or if you have no history on an older dog, keep in mind that the commands ‘come’ or ‘here’ may be a negative word for him. It is possible that his former owner called him to come and then made the mistake of punishing the dog as soon as the dog came. In this case you will want to choose your command wisely and change it if necessary. I personally like the command ‘here’ because I find that the word come is used so often in a household between family members that the dog becomes somewhat desensitized to the word. For instance, “Come on kids, it’s time for school.” or, “Are you going to come with us?” Which ever command word you choose, here or come, be aware that this is the most difficult and most important command for a dog to recall. You will want to train this command in a quiet non distracting place such as a basement, garage, or hallway before trying it outside. You will also want to forego the hot dogs you have been using in lieu of a tastier treat like beef or chicken. When you think your dog is ready to try this command outside make sure the area is fenced and his leash is attached so there is no possibility of him loosing focus and chasing after a car.
Start out using the six foot leash. Put the dog in a down stay or sit stay, and walk to the end of the leash. Tap your right hand to your chest; say the dog’s name and here. (Example: Chance, here) As he starts coming toward you click, click, click and click, in succession. If he gets distracted along the way, gently reel him in toward you with the leash and continue to call his name and give the command. Once he gets to you, have him sit in front of you. Click and give him the mother load of treats for a job well done! In the next step, again using the six foot leash put the dog in a sit stay, walk to the end of the leash and give the here command. As the dog starts approaching you, you will start to move backward in a little jog repeating the command and clicking as long as he is following you. When you stop, put him in a sit in front of you, click, praise, and treat well.
Repeat this step with the six foot leash for one or two weeks three times a day.
In step two you will take the dog outside in as little of a distracting place as possible and use the twenty foot lead in place of the six foot lead. For the next two weeks or longer if needed, you will use the twenty foot lead in the same manner as the six foot lead. Remember, just because the dog does well while in a non distracting place, taking him into the outside world is a whole different story. There are so many neat things for a dog to check out. Why should he come to you when he can roll in cow dung, or chase a squirrel? That’s why the reward and praise he gets from you for coming is extremely important. You want your dog to think you are the best thing since roast beef was discovered. Never use the come/here command if your dog should get loose from you while he is in training or you will only show him that the command means nothing because he is free and can go where he wants without the lead there to reel him in. If by chance the dog gets away from you while training and is running off try playing the 'get me game'. Say the dog's name in a happy excited voice and start running in the opposite direction. Hopefully the dog will think it is time to play and turn around and start chasing you! Grab a hold of the leash at that time and do not scold him but give him lots of praise and with the leash attached continue playing the get me game so the dog doesn’t realize it was just a rouse to get him back in the car or house. It would also be a good idea to reinforce the come/here command through play in your living room. Have two people sit at opposite sides of the room, have plenty of treats and your clickers handy, call the dog back and forth between you using his name and the here command. Once the dog reaches each person who is calling him he gets a click, lots of treats, and overwhelming praise. If the dog goes to the person that is not calling him he should get no click or reward, and should be ignored by that person. Only when the dog goes to the person who is calling him should he get praise and reward. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to always praise your dog for coming to you when called. Too many people make the mistake of getting angry when their dog breaks loose and runs down the street that by the time they catch the dog, either out of anger or fear, they yell or hit the dog. This is the worst thing you can do, for it only tells the dog, “When my owner gets a hold of me I will be hit or scolded.” Would you want to go back to your father or mother if you knew you would get hit? Of course not. That’s why it is imperative that no matter the situation, you always praise your dog for coming to you, and give yourself a bop in the head for the mishap that put your dog in danger. Yeah, Yeah, I know accidents happen.
Once your dog has learned the above command you can start phasing out the excessive treat use. To do this, give him a command, click and treat. Then give him that same command, click and praise with words and lots of lovin’. Then move to treating every third time, then every sixth time, etc. You don’t have to give up treats altogether. You want the dog to think, “Hey, if I do that I may get a treat.” The operative word being “may.” You can still use the clicker as a behavior marker for any good behavior you catch the dog doing. If you’re ever out with your dog and have forgotten your clicker you can basically make a similar sound with your mouth.
The hand signal/command for come is taking your right hand and patting your chest.
Leave it!
The leave it command is extremely important to teach your dog. I am reminded of one of the dogs in our therapy group that ate a pill found on the floor of a resident’s room. The dog eventually went into seizures and had to be rushed to the vet. Thankfully everything turned out okay. To teach the ‘Leave It’ command, take a boring everyday treat such as a biscuit, show it to the dog and then throw it on the ground about three feet from the dog. Make sure you have your leash and Martingale collar attached to the dog for correction. In your right hand you will also have a very special treat such as chicken, or roast beef. You want to make sure the treat is one he does not normally train with and something very yummy. Give the command of ‘Leave It’ (example: Chance, Leave It.) to your dog as he eyes the biscuit on the ground. Walk him in the heel position around the treat at a radius of three feet. Should he go for the biscuit, and most dogs will, give him a slight tug on the leash and give the leave it command again. When he backs away from the biscuit or looks at your face wondering what you are talking about, click and give him the yummy treat from your hand. Repeat this process until the dog shows no interest in the object that was placed on the ground. You will also want to incorporate toys into the leave it training as some dogs are really toy motivated. The concept is to make the dog think that if he obeys the 'leave it' command something better is coming his way. Eventually as his training is well under way, special treats will be replaced with praise. The hand signal/command for Leave It, is taking your right (or left) hand and moving it in front of the dog’s face from left to right in a sweeping motion.
Another way to teach leave it is to take the boring treat and place it in your right or left hand, have the yummy treat in the opposite hand, show the dog the boring treat and as he goes for it close your hand around the treat making it inaccessible to him, after his sniffing, licking and pawing have stopped and he looks at you as if to say, “Hey, are you gonna’ give me it or not?” Click and reward with the yummy treat in your opposite hand. Eventually you will incorporate the command leave it.
Drop it!
Teaching a dog to drop it is almost as important as the leave it command. Should your dog take off with mother’s fine jewelry you’ll want to get that back. Or if he should happen to be walking around with your neighbor's cat in his mouth, well, that’s a definite no, no! While the dog has a toy in is mouth, give the command ‘drop it’ at the same time offering him a treat. I’m sure he’ll choose the treat over the toy. Once he drops the object click and treat. Repeat this throughout formal and informal training. Never chase a dog that has something you want or he will think of it as a game and continue running. If he you have taught a good sit stay command try using that.
Off:
Remember that off is a different command than down. Too many people make the mistake of telling the dog to get down from the couch while the dog is already lying in the ‘down position’ on the couch. To the dog, down means lying down, and since he’s already lying down he may get confused at to what you’re asking him to do. Make sure to use the proper command for what you expect. To train your dog the off command you may actually have to set him up with the behavior you don’t want. If he is already on the couch that’s great, if not call him onto the couch. Put a treat in front of his nose and lead him off the couch at the same time saying off, clicking and treating him as he makes his way off the couch. Repeat this when the dog is in a location where you want him off. Jumping on people is another good use for the off command.
When giving commands you will always put the dogs name in front of the command. The only time you do not use his name first is when you tell him ‘no’. You do not want the dog to associate his name with a negative. The hand signals for training commands are generalized for a medium to large size dog, for a small dog you may have to start out kneeling on the floor so he can see the hand signals clearly.
Loading the clicker:
Call your dog’s name and as he gives you his attention click and treat. Repeat this several times until you no longer have to call the dog, but just the click gets his attention. When his attention turns to you each time you click, he is ready to begin. Should your dog be one of the few that does not usually respond to food as a reward then use his favorite toy instead. In this case you will click, praise and offer him his toy.
Eye contact:
Getting your dog’s eye contact is important for these reasons; it shows that the dog is paying attention to you and awaiting your next move, and it puts you in the dominant position. You want your dog to know that you are the leader.
If your dog is small enough, place him on top of a table and call his name. The moment he turns his eyes toward your face click and treat. If you have a larger dog, contain him in a small quiet room, such as a bathroom, so he has no other alternative than to stay and look at you. Repeat this process until you are sure your dog will make eye contact each and every time you call his name. Should your dog find it hard to give you eye contact which sometimes happens with a ‘fear aggressive’ dog, or a ‘fear submissive’ dog, show him the treat as you call his name, then slowly move the treat up and even with your eyes. If the dog follows the treat to you eyes or anywhere near your face, click and treat. Repeat this process until the dog is comfortable enough to look at your face. If your dog is ‘fear aggressive’ or ‘fear submissive’ it may take him longer to look at you, as both types of behaviors make the dog leery and he does not want a confrontation. Eye contact is a dog’s way of being challenged by an intruder.
Sit:
Sit is the easiest command to teach your dog but you must remember that it is a command that stands alone. Many people mistakenly say “Rover, sit down” The dog looks at you stupidly as if asking the question, “Do you want a sit or a down?” Sit and down are two different commands and should be used as such. At first you will not say anything to the dog. Hold the treat over his head until he is forced into the sit position by looking up at the treat. As soon as his bottom starts to hit the floor click and treat. Once he gets the idea that he must sit, make sure the next time that his bottom is planted firmly on the floor. Repeat this process adding his name and the command ‘sit’. (Example: Chance, Sit.) The hand signal/command for sit is simply raising your hand up from your waist to your chest area, palm facing up.
Use the vocal command and the hand command in conjunction when you first begin training. If your dog has trouble with a sit in an open area, try putting him as close to a wall as possible so as he backs up his only alternative is to sit.
Helpful hint: If you have your dog sit before feeding, petting, answering the door, or greeting you at the door, he will be less inclined to jump on people.
Release:
Whenever you teach a dog a command it is very important to also give a release command. This tells the dog that the command is over and he can go back to being his inquisitive self. You can use a short phrase such as the dogs name and ‘okay’ in a semi exited voice. (Example: Chance, okay!) Always remember to release the dog from a command. You will get longer stays if there is a release command.
Down:
Putting your dog in a down position may take a little more work. Dogs feel very vulnerable in the down position so it is important to take more time with this command.
While your dog is in the sit position, show him the treat and bring the treat down toward the floor near his front feet. As his nose follows the treat, drag the treat on the floor toward you and away from the dog. As he follows the treat his front legs should start to move down toward the floor, click and treat. Repeat this until you can get his whole body down on the floor. Once he has no problem with putting his whole body on the floor incorporate the command down. (Example: Chance, Down) Should your dog have trouble going down with just the clicker and treat, use the treat in conjunction with his leash. With his leash attached to his collar try pulling the leash down gently to the floor at the same time you are showing him the treat. Remember to click and treat the moment his body starts to hit the floor. The hand signal/command is done by starting with your right hand, palm down, just under your chest and bringing it down toward the floor ending just about waist level. Sometimes it is necessary to go lower, especially with a puppy, but once the dog understands the command completely , stopping at the waist should suffice.
Heel:
With the dog in a sit at your left side, the leash in your left hand being held close to the dog’s collar, hold the treat in your right hand in front of the dog’s nose. Hold the treat as close to your left leg as possible, preferably at the outer seam of your pants. Say the dog’s name and the command Heel. (Example: Chance, Heel) The dog’s head should be even with your left leg, he should not go ahead of you. Always start off with your left foot when you heel your dog. This will give the dog a visual cue as well as a verbal command. As the dog follows the treat, click, treat, and repeat the command in succession.
As a Therapy Dog, your dog must be able to heel weaving in and out of obstacles, so you’ll want to teach heel as close to your leg as possible. It may be helpful to teach heel in a narrow hallway at first. This will insure that the dog stays close to you and you’ll get a straight heel as opposed to his head being near your leg but his body way out in left field! When training heel you should make right turns and left turns. A right turn is the easiest as all you are doing is turning right and asking your dog to follow you. A left turn heel is a little more difficult for some people and this is why it is so important that your dog’s head not be in front of your leg or you will find yourself tripping over the dog. When making a left turn heel, say the word heel and swing your left leg out and in front of the dog, if he is in the right position he will just continue to follow you. If he is too far in front of your leg he will get a bop in the head as you bring your left leg in front of him. Most dogs pick this up quickly as two or three bumps in the noggin is enough for them to remember to stay at your side.
To get your dog to always heel properly and consistently continue making right turns, left turns, and about turns (turning all the way around in the opposite direction)during your training sessions. If the dog is not sure what is coming next he will surely watch your movements closely.
When you come to a stop, you will tell the dog to ‘sit’ by your left leg, both of you facing in the same direction. The hand signal/command for heel is simply tapping your left leg with your hand and stepping off with your left foot.
There are some dogs that when asked to heel, find it more enjoyable to grab a hold of the leash and play a game of tug of war. To help correct this problem, ‘before’ the leash is put on the dog, soak it down with Bitter Apple spray thereby making the leash an unpleasant item to grab. Should your dog be the rare exception and not mind the Bitter Apple taste then try peppermint breath spray or Tabasco sauce. You will have to repeat this as the leash will not hold those ingredients for more than a day. Don’t fret, this is not a life long daily process, as soon as your dog regularly stops trying to grab the leash as you walk, he has gotten the idea and you will no longer have to spray it.
Sit Stay:
Put the dog in a sit command at your left side. Holding the leash in your left hand put your right palm in front of his face and say the word stay. Pivot in front of your dog starting with your right foot. (Remember that if you use your ‘left’ foot the dog will get the visual cue of heel) Stand about one foot or less in front of him repeating the command stay. (Example, Chance, Stay) Wait only a few seconds at first, if he stays, click and treat. Gradually you will increase the distance between you and the dog and the amount of time of the stay. Try to always catch his good behavior in the stay command by clicking and treating before he has a chance to get up and break the stay. By catching and rewarding him in a stay you are setting him up for successful behavior and not failure. Should the dog break the stay, just say ‘oops’ in a non threatening tone, place him back in the initial spot in the sit position, and shorten the stay time. The hand signal for stay is placing your right palm in front of the dog’s face.
Down Stay:
Put the dog in the down position at your left side. Put your right hand in front of the dog’s face and give the stay command. Step off with your right foot. Again going only about a foot in front of him and repeating the command stay. Remember to click and treat for good behavior. Follow the above steps, gradually increasing the time and distance between you and the dog. The down stay position is the most difficult for the dog to perform as he feels very vulnerable and open to attack. Should he break the down stay, just say “oops” in a non threatening tone and start again at the place where the dog broke his down command. There should be no reason to use the collar correction in any stay command, however, once the dog is in the down position you may want to step on the leash to prevent him from getting up. This will only work if you are close to the dog but it is a start in getting a good stay. Holding the treat above your shoulder sometimes helps the dog remain in a stay command as his eyes are usually glued to the treat.
Wait:
What is the difference between stay and wait? The stay command means stay where you are until I release you. A wait command may be given if your hands are full of groceries and you are trying to get through the door before your dog pushes past you knocking all of the groceries to the floor! Another example of wait is if the dog is in the car and anxious to get out, for a visit, or for other reasons, that he starts pulling on the seat belt or pawing at the crate, you will give him the wait command to calm him down. Should you choose not to use either safety device in your car, you would give the wait command before you open the door so he doesn’t jump out into traffic! Wait is more of a brief pause meaning stop where you are for a minute or two. I use the wait command for the above but also when I visit places that want to take pictures. The wait command lets the dog know that they will be in that position for only a few minutes. To get my dog Chance to sit for a nice picture I want his head up, so I also use human sign language for the meaning of wait, which is taking your right hand, placing it at your left shoulder, palm facing your shoulder, and wiggle your fingers back and forth. By doing it this way Chance’s line of vision is on my shoulder bringing his head up for perfect picture taking! When the picture is over I bring my hand down and he knows the wait is over and he may get up. Of course if you are coming through the door with an arm full of groceries using sign language won’t work, so you will always verbalize the wait command. To teach wait, bring the dog to a quiet room, have the dog sit, face the dog and say the word wait while giving the hand gesture simultaneously. Keep him there for only a few seconds at first, then drop your hand and turn away from the dog. At this point your dog will wonder what’s going on, no click no treat? Call the dog to you and when he comes to you click and treat. By clicking after you turn around you are rewarding the whole behavior of waiting. If you click and treat after the two seconds the dog will think it’s okay to get up, when in reality you don’t want him under your feet until you call his name. Remember that bag of groceries I told you about? If you told the dog to wait while going through the door with your hands full and wait to the dog only meant to stay facing you for two minutes, you would never be able to continue through the door as the dog would constantly be moving forward to face you. So you want the dog to know wait means until you call his name. Repeat the above until you can increase the wait time for at least two to four minutes. Of course your dog does not have to be sitting; standing in place is fine also. Once you’ve mastered the command in a quiet place bring your dog to the door with the leash on and tell him to wait as you open the door. You will then walk through the door and only after you are completely out and a few feet away from the door do you call his name. Click and treat. Should the dog try to squeeze through the door as you open it, tell him no, put your foot on the leash and give the command wait, again. If the dog is still giving you problems when you open the door, because lets face it, that rabbit on the front lawn looks mighty tempting, try this, tell the dog to wait, slowly start to open the door, as his head starts stretching toward the door, quickly close it. Repeat this as many times as necessary, and always put him back in the same spot before you give the command again. Now I must admit that occasionally the dog will be faster at getting his nose to the door than you will be at closing it so be prepared for a few nose crunches! Just make sure the pressure you are using to close the door isn’t so hard that your dog will get hurt in the process. Keep in mind that your own fingers may feel that same crunch occasionally.Once you’ve mastered the door wait it is time to try it in the car. If you were paying attention in the beginning of the training chapter you will know that dogs do not always carry a command over from one place to another. If you have a garage it is best to start in there with the door closed for the dog’s safety. If you don’t have a garage, attach the twenty foot lead to the dog’s collar and close in or tether to, a car door that you will not be using. This insures that if the dog does bolt out he cannot run out into traffic. You will give the command wait before opening the car door, only after you have attached his six foot leash to his collar and called his name may he get out of the car. He may try to bolt out for the first few times and this is normal as he is in a new environment, but having first mastered the wait command in the house he should quickly catch on in the car as well. Just be sure not to use the closing of the car door tactic that you used with the house door as it may hurt too much and you can ruin him from ever wanting to go in the car again.
Stand:
Stand comes in handy when the dog needs to be groomed or examined by a vet. Start by putting your dog in a sit stay. Walk a few feet away and call him to you. Once he is in front of you place one arm under his belly near his back legs and the other arm under his neck grasping the collar. Give the command ‘stand’. (Example: Chance, stand.) Hold him there for only a few seconds at first, repeating the command, and clicking and treating as long as he is standing. Repeat this step until his stand gets longer. Do not forget to release him when the command is over. It may also help if while in the stand position, you hold the treat near his mouth and let him nibble on it as you repeat the command. The hand signal/command for stand is taking both hands, palms up and bring them from your waist to just under your chest. Of course you will not be able to use this signal until the ‘word’ stand is learned.
Targeting:
Targeting can help when your dog approaches a person in a wheelchair, or for approaching someone who is laid up in bed. By teaching him targeting eventually you can point to where you want the dog to put his head. Show the dog a treat being held in your ‘right’ hand, close your hand to make a fist surrounding the treat. Hold your right fist with the treat in it just a few inches from your dog’s nose and as your dog sniffs your hand to check out the smell of the treat, click and treat from your ‘left’ hand. After a few times, incorporate the command ‘Touch’. (Example: Chance, Touch) Once he is touching your hand on command, you can switch hands with the yummy the treat so he is never sure where the treat will come from but will happily oblige the command ‘touch’ to get one. Once he is touching both of your hands on command, incorporate other items, like a spoon, a book, a chair arm, etc. Use as many different items as you can find, especially items of different texture and size. Eventually you will point to where you want the dog to place his head while giving him the touch command. Then incorporate the stay command. Do this for only a few seconds at first as he is more likely going to look up at you for the treat. You can try holding the treat hand on the object you want him to stay on. Remember though, you must click before he has the chance to lift his head.
Come/Here:
If you purchased an older dog from the local pound or if you have no history on an older dog, keep in mind that the commands ‘come’ or ‘here’ may be a negative word for him. It is possible that his former owner called him to come and then made the mistake of punishing the dog as soon as the dog came. In this case you will want to choose your command wisely and change it if necessary. I personally like the command ‘here’ because I find that the word come is used so often in a household between family members that the dog becomes somewhat desensitized to the word. For instance, “Come on kids, it’s time for school.” or, “Are you going to come with us?” Which ever command word you choose, here or come, be aware that this is the most difficult and most important command for a dog to recall. You will want to train this command in a quiet non distracting place such as a basement, garage, or hallway before trying it outside. You will also want to forego the hot dogs you have been using in lieu of a tastier treat like beef or chicken. When you think your dog is ready to try this command outside make sure the area is fenced and his leash is attached so there is no possibility of him loosing focus and chasing after a car.
Start out using the six foot leash. Put the dog in a down stay or sit stay, and walk to the end of the leash. Tap your right hand to your chest; say the dog’s name and here. (Example: Chance, here) As he starts coming toward you click, click, click and click, in succession. If he gets distracted along the way, gently reel him in toward you with the leash and continue to call his name and give the command. Once he gets to you, have him sit in front of you. Click and give him the mother load of treats for a job well done! In the next step, again using the six foot leash put the dog in a sit stay, walk to the end of the leash and give the here command. As the dog starts approaching you, you will start to move backward in a little jog repeating the command and clicking as long as he is following you. When you stop, put him in a sit in front of you, click, praise, and treat well.
Repeat this step with the six foot leash for one or two weeks three times a day.
In step two you will take the dog outside in as little of a distracting place as possible and use the twenty foot lead in place of the six foot lead. For the next two weeks or longer if needed, you will use the twenty foot lead in the same manner as the six foot lead. Remember, just because the dog does well while in a non distracting place, taking him into the outside world is a whole different story. There are so many neat things for a dog to check out. Why should he come to you when he can roll in cow dung, or chase a squirrel? That’s why the reward and praise he gets from you for coming is extremely important. You want your dog to think you are the best thing since roast beef was discovered. Never use the come/here command if your dog should get loose from you while he is in training or you will only show him that the command means nothing because he is free and can go where he wants without the lead there to reel him in. If by chance the dog gets away from you while training and is running off try playing the 'get me game'. Say the dog's name in a happy excited voice and start running in the opposite direction. Hopefully the dog will think it is time to play and turn around and start chasing you! Grab a hold of the leash at that time and do not scold him but give him lots of praise and with the leash attached continue playing the get me game so the dog doesn’t realize it was just a rouse to get him back in the car or house. It would also be a good idea to reinforce the come/here command through play in your living room. Have two people sit at opposite sides of the room, have plenty of treats and your clickers handy, call the dog back and forth between you using his name and the here command. Once the dog reaches each person who is calling him he gets a click, lots of treats, and overwhelming praise. If the dog goes to the person that is not calling him he should get no click or reward, and should be ignored by that person. Only when the dog goes to the person who is calling him should he get praise and reward. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to always praise your dog for coming to you when called. Too many people make the mistake of getting angry when their dog breaks loose and runs down the street that by the time they catch the dog, either out of anger or fear, they yell or hit the dog. This is the worst thing you can do, for it only tells the dog, “When my owner gets a hold of me I will be hit or scolded.” Would you want to go back to your father or mother if you knew you would get hit? Of course not. That’s why it is imperative that no matter the situation, you always praise your dog for coming to you, and give yourself a bop in the head for the mishap that put your dog in danger. Yeah, Yeah, I know accidents happen.
Once your dog has learned the above command you can start phasing out the excessive treat use. To do this, give him a command, click and treat. Then give him that same command, click and praise with words and lots of lovin’. Then move to treating every third time, then every sixth time, etc. You don’t have to give up treats altogether. You want the dog to think, “Hey, if I do that I may get a treat.” The operative word being “may.” You can still use the clicker as a behavior marker for any good behavior you catch the dog doing. If you’re ever out with your dog and have forgotten your clicker you can basically make a similar sound with your mouth.
The hand signal/command for come is taking your right hand and patting your chest.
Leave it!
The leave it command is extremely important to teach your dog. I am reminded of one of the dogs in our therapy group that ate a pill found on the floor of a resident’s room. The dog eventually went into seizures and had to be rushed to the vet. Thankfully everything turned out okay. To teach the ‘Leave It’ command, take a boring everyday treat such as a biscuit, show it to the dog and then throw it on the ground about three feet from the dog. Make sure you have your leash and Martingale collar attached to the dog for correction. In your right hand you will also have a very special treat such as chicken, or roast beef. You want to make sure the treat is one he does not normally train with and something very yummy. Give the command of ‘Leave It’ (example: Chance, Leave It.) to your dog as he eyes the biscuit on the ground. Walk him in the heel position around the treat at a radius of three feet. Should he go for the biscuit, and most dogs will, give him a slight tug on the leash and give the leave it command again. When he backs away from the biscuit or looks at your face wondering what you are talking about, click and give him the yummy treat from your hand. Repeat this process until the dog shows no interest in the object that was placed on the ground. You will also want to incorporate toys into the leave it training as some dogs are really toy motivated. The concept is to make the dog think that if he obeys the 'leave it' command something better is coming his way. Eventually as his training is well under way, special treats will be replaced with praise. The hand signal/command for Leave It, is taking your right (or left) hand and moving it in front of the dog’s face from left to right in a sweeping motion.
Another way to teach leave it is to take the boring treat and place it in your right or left hand, have the yummy treat in the opposite hand, show the dog the boring treat and as he goes for it close your hand around the treat making it inaccessible to him, after his sniffing, licking and pawing have stopped and he looks at you as if to say, “Hey, are you gonna’ give me it or not?” Click and reward with the yummy treat in your opposite hand. Eventually you will incorporate the command leave it.
Drop it!
Teaching a dog to drop it is almost as important as the leave it command. Should your dog take off with mother’s fine jewelry you’ll want to get that back. Or if he should happen to be walking around with your neighbor's cat in his mouth, well, that’s a definite no, no! While the dog has a toy in is mouth, give the command ‘drop it’ at the same time offering him a treat. I’m sure he’ll choose the treat over the toy. Once he drops the object click and treat. Repeat this throughout formal and informal training. Never chase a dog that has something you want or he will think of it as a game and continue running. If he you have taught a good sit stay command try using that.
Off:
Remember that off is a different command than down. Too many people make the mistake of telling the dog to get down from the couch while the dog is already lying in the ‘down position’ on the couch. To the dog, down means lying down, and since he’s already lying down he may get confused at to what you’re asking him to do. Make sure to use the proper command for what you expect. To train your dog the off command you may actually have to set him up with the behavior you don’t want. If he is already on the couch that’s great, if not call him onto the couch. Put a treat in front of his nose and lead him off the couch at the same time saying off, clicking and treating him as he makes his way off the couch. Repeat this when the dog is in a location where you want him off. Jumping on people is another good use for the off command.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
tips for pups before formal training
Getting your dog used to the collar and leash:
If you adopted or purchased an older dog chances are he is already used to wearing a collar and dragging around a leash. Puppies on the other hand may have had little to no experience with a collar or leash. Make sure the collar is the proper size and check the collar weekly as puppies go through growth spurts. You should have room enough to put two fingers under the pup’s collar. Place the collar on your pup. He may try to get this new intrusion off of his body at first so take his attention off of the collar by giving him a fun play session and some treats. It won’t take long before he forgets the collar is around his neck. Next attach the leash and let him drag it around. Should he try to chew it you can spray it with Grannicks Bitter Apple. (Found in most pet stores) If the pup seems to be overreacting to the leash use something lighter, like a short piece of clothesline rope. By dragging it around, he will will eventually step on it and will start getting used to a little pressure on his neck. Never leave it on when the dog is unattended!
Try playing with him as you did with the collar. Once he is used to the clothesline you can retry the leash.
teaching your pup to stay by your side
If you purchased an older dog he should be able to get the routine of the household down fairly quickly, a puppy however should not get free reign of the house for at least one year. There are too many hazards in the home that your pup will certainly find. If the pup accepts the crate you can put him in there while you are busy. If he is not yet used to the crate take the twenty foot lead you bought for training, tie it around your waist and put the puppy on the other end. This way he must follow you when you are doing your daily chores and at the same time you are actually training him to stay close to you. This also works well for when you are doing outside work, such as gardening.
Socialization:
I cannot express enough how important it is to get your dog well socialized, which means taking him to meet as many different dogs and people as possible. You should also get him used to different inside and outside noises. The earlier you start this, the more likely you will have a well rounded dog. The dog that fears his surroundings from the onset will begin to develop unwanted behaviors later. Such as excessive barking, chewing, or fear aggression. If you want your dog to pass the Canine Good Citizen and the Therapy Dog test they must get used to being in different situations. If your dog is already friendly take him out to a shopping center where he will come in contact with lots of people. Don’t forget your clicker and tasty treats! Ask the strangers that approach you to give your dog a treat. The dog will remember this action thereby letting him know that being around strangers is a good thing. If you should happen to come in contact with other dogs that are friendly, have the owner of the other dog feed your dog a treat as well as this shows your dog that when other dogs are around he gets something good. If at any time during the socialization practices your dog shows fear of something then move farther away until he is comfortable. Don’t push the dog into doing something he is not comfortable with as this memory will surely last. Also, don’t just visit the same shopping center each time but take him to many as different areas have different street sounds.
Get the Most Out of a Training Session:
Each formal training session should not last more than fifteen to twenty minutes three to four times a day for a puppy. For an older dog you can go for a half hour, or as long as the dog shows interest in continuing. Once any agitation or boredom is shown by the dog, or you, stop training immediately and try again later. Your body language and tone of voice will make a difference in how the dog views his training. It should be fun for both of you!
Do not feed, play with, or exercise your dog before a training session. Commands should be consistent and kept to one to two word phrases. Do not confuse him with a bunch of human garble. Try to take a full week to teach the dog only one command. If you try to teach too many commands at once the dog may become confused and take longer to learn them. Does this mean you can’t ask the dog to obey other commands while you are teaching him the one per week? No, you may still teach other commands but more informally, do not punish, or scold if he doesn’t comply completely. Also, just because your dog has learned to sit in the kitchen does not mean he can carry over that behavior in the living room. Teach him his commands in every room of the house before taking him outside to try them. Also train in a quiet place at first, don’t try training when the kids come bouncing through the door after a long day at school or when Aunt Lucy comes for tea.
There is a difference between formal training and informal training. Formal training is when the dog is on the leash and you are giving him commands. Informal training is done throughout the day in play. For instance, when playing fetch with the dog you are teaching him informally and in a fun way to return to you. If you are rough housing with the dog and he bites a little too hard, you yelp, stop the game and walk away, thereby teaching him bite inhibition. By playing a game of ‘Come Here’ between several family members, the dog is learning what come means.
Keep in mind that when training your dog he will only do as much as you expect of him. If he offers you a crooked sit and you accept it by not asking for better, that is what you will most likely get each and every time. It is up to you to decide what you want out of your dog. If you are not training for an obedience contest, but just want the dog to sit when company comes over, a crooked sit is fine.
If you adopted or purchased an older dog chances are he is already used to wearing a collar and dragging around a leash. Puppies on the other hand may have had little to no experience with a collar or leash. Make sure the collar is the proper size and check the collar weekly as puppies go through growth spurts. You should have room enough to put two fingers under the pup’s collar. Place the collar on your pup. He may try to get this new intrusion off of his body at first so take his attention off of the collar by giving him a fun play session and some treats. It won’t take long before he forgets the collar is around his neck. Next attach the leash and let him drag it around. Should he try to chew it you can spray it with Grannicks Bitter Apple. (Found in most pet stores) If the pup seems to be overreacting to the leash use something lighter, like a short piece of clothesline rope. By dragging it around, he will will eventually step on it and will start getting used to a little pressure on his neck. Never leave it on when the dog is unattended!
Try playing with him as you did with the collar. Once he is used to the clothesline you can retry the leash.
teaching your pup to stay by your side
If you purchased an older dog he should be able to get the routine of the household down fairly quickly, a puppy however should not get free reign of the house for at least one year. There are too many hazards in the home that your pup will certainly find. If the pup accepts the crate you can put him in there while you are busy. If he is not yet used to the crate take the twenty foot lead you bought for training, tie it around your waist and put the puppy on the other end. This way he must follow you when you are doing your daily chores and at the same time you are actually training him to stay close to you. This also works well for when you are doing outside work, such as gardening.
Socialization:
I cannot express enough how important it is to get your dog well socialized, which means taking him to meet as many different dogs and people as possible. You should also get him used to different inside and outside noises. The earlier you start this, the more likely you will have a well rounded dog. The dog that fears his surroundings from the onset will begin to develop unwanted behaviors later. Such as excessive barking, chewing, or fear aggression. If you want your dog to pass the Canine Good Citizen and the Therapy Dog test they must get used to being in different situations. If your dog is already friendly take him out to a shopping center where he will come in contact with lots of people. Don’t forget your clicker and tasty treats! Ask the strangers that approach you to give your dog a treat. The dog will remember this action thereby letting him know that being around strangers is a good thing. If you should happen to come in contact with other dogs that are friendly, have the owner of the other dog feed your dog a treat as well as this shows your dog that when other dogs are around he gets something good. If at any time during the socialization practices your dog shows fear of something then move farther away until he is comfortable. Don’t push the dog into doing something he is not comfortable with as this memory will surely last. Also, don’t just visit the same shopping center each time but take him to many as different areas have different street sounds.
Get the Most Out of a Training Session:
Each formal training session should not last more than fifteen to twenty minutes three to four times a day for a puppy. For an older dog you can go for a half hour, or as long as the dog shows interest in continuing. Once any agitation or boredom is shown by the dog, or you, stop training immediately and try again later. Your body language and tone of voice will make a difference in how the dog views his training. It should be fun for both of you!
Do not feed, play with, or exercise your dog before a training session. Commands should be consistent and kept to one to two word phrases. Do not confuse him with a bunch of human garble. Try to take a full week to teach the dog only one command. If you try to teach too many commands at once the dog may become confused and take longer to learn them. Does this mean you can’t ask the dog to obey other commands while you are teaching him the one per week? No, you may still teach other commands but more informally, do not punish, or scold if he doesn’t comply completely. Also, just because your dog has learned to sit in the kitchen does not mean he can carry over that behavior in the living room. Teach him his commands in every room of the house before taking him outside to try them. Also train in a quiet place at first, don’t try training when the kids come bouncing through the door after a long day at school or when Aunt Lucy comes for tea.
There is a difference between formal training and informal training. Formal training is when the dog is on the leash and you are giving him commands. Informal training is done throughout the day in play. For instance, when playing fetch with the dog you are teaching him informally and in a fun way to return to you. If you are rough housing with the dog and he bites a little too hard, you yelp, stop the game and walk away, thereby teaching him bite inhibition. By playing a game of ‘Come Here’ between several family members, the dog is learning what come means.
Keep in mind that when training your dog he will only do as much as you expect of him. If he offers you a crooked sit and you accept it by not asking for better, that is what you will most likely get each and every time. It is up to you to decide what you want out of your dog. If you are not training for an obedience contest, but just want the dog to sit when company comes over, a crooked sit is fine.
Monday, May 11, 2009
potty training 101
“Ah, isn’t he cute, just look at him…peeing on the floor!” A dog will not pass the therapy test if it cannot hold its bladder so proper potty training is essential.
Don’t fret this as potty training is easy, but you have to make the time to do this. A small puppy should go out after play, after every nap, after eating, and every hour in-between! If you purchased an older dog that was kept in a kennel thereby eliminating when ever he felt like it you will also have to start a potty training regiment. Although an older dog may not have to go out as often, you must still keep a watchful eye on him. Take the dog on a leash to the area in the yard you want him to eliminate. Repeat the phrase ‘go potty’ (or whatever phrase suits you) over and over, even as he is eliminating. Don’t speak in a high pitched voice as it may confuse him and he’ll forget about needing to potty and want to play. Use a calm monotone voice as if you were a robot. Once he has finished his business, click (with the clicker you bought for training, see below if you have not started basic obedience yet) and reward.
There will be times when you will take the puppy out and the slightest breeze in the air may turn his attention away from eliminating, try to get his focus back to the task at hand by walking in a circle and returning to the potty area. Should he just stand there and look at you, give him a few seconds to rethink what he is out there for. If after a total of ten to fifteen minutes he does not eliminate bring him back inside and keep him under a watchful eye. Wait another ten to fifteen minutes and try again. To keep him under watchful eye you can either crate him or tether him to you so he must stay near you at all times. The younger the dog the more distracting the outside world will be so your reward has to be something to work toward for the dog and it should be the only time the dog gets this particular reward. Hot dog slivers or cheeese chunks work well.
Should your dog ever have an accident after you have brought him back inside or whenever you have left him alone, never scold him. If you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, calmly say “oops” and bring him outside to finish up. Remember to click (with the clicker you have bought for training) and treat once he is done. Let me explain what your dog thinks when you walk through the door and find he has left you a special package. The door opens and your dog greets you whole heartedly even if you’ve only been gone two minutes. You see the mess and start ranting a bunch of human garble as your hands are trying to scoop up the poop. Your tone of voice is getting angry as the poop rolls off the paper and back onto the floor hitting you new leather shoes! It is your tone and body language that sets the pace for the dog’s reaction as he slinks away from you, his head seemingly hung low in guilt. “He knows what he’s done, right? Wrong!” The only thing the dog takes from this experience is that every time the person he adores walks through the door he gets hollered at. He has no idea why you are angry, rather he only associates that mood with you walking through the door. The best thing to do is greet him happily as the damage has already been done and you can’t turn back the clock, so just clean it up with no reaction. I have also heard of people who say you should rub his nose in it. So I pose these questions to them. “ If you poop and I rub your nose in it each time, wouldn’t you eventually start pooping in spots so I would not find it?”
Well, that is what your dog will start doing. To avoid an unpleasant greeting he will start pooping in your closet, your shoes, and behind furniture. Toilet training your puppy is the same as toilet training a two year old child, it takes time, patience, and repetition. Should your dog soil in the house use a solution of white vinegar and water to clean it up. Never use ammonia based cleaners as a dog’s urine is ammonia based and his nose will lead him back to that spot. There are also cleaning solutions on the market specifically for dog and cat markings.
basic obedeince training method for clicker www.clickerlessons.com
Don’t fret this as potty training is easy, but you have to make the time to do this. A small puppy should go out after play, after every nap, after eating, and every hour in-between! If you purchased an older dog that was kept in a kennel thereby eliminating when ever he felt like it you will also have to start a potty training regiment. Although an older dog may not have to go out as often, you must still keep a watchful eye on him. Take the dog on a leash to the area in the yard you want him to eliminate. Repeat the phrase ‘go potty’ (or whatever phrase suits you) over and over, even as he is eliminating. Don’t speak in a high pitched voice as it may confuse him and he’ll forget about needing to potty and want to play. Use a calm monotone voice as if you were a robot. Once he has finished his business, click (with the clicker you bought for training, see below if you have not started basic obedience yet) and reward.
There will be times when you will take the puppy out and the slightest breeze in the air may turn his attention away from eliminating, try to get his focus back to the task at hand by walking in a circle and returning to the potty area. Should he just stand there and look at you, give him a few seconds to rethink what he is out there for. If after a total of ten to fifteen minutes he does not eliminate bring him back inside and keep him under a watchful eye. Wait another ten to fifteen minutes and try again. To keep him under watchful eye you can either crate him or tether him to you so he must stay near you at all times. The younger the dog the more distracting the outside world will be so your reward has to be something to work toward for the dog and it should be the only time the dog gets this particular reward. Hot dog slivers or cheeese chunks work well.
Should your dog ever have an accident after you have brought him back inside or whenever you have left him alone, never scold him. If you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, calmly say “oops” and bring him outside to finish up. Remember to click (with the clicker you have bought for training) and treat once he is done. Let me explain what your dog thinks when you walk through the door and find he has left you a special package. The door opens and your dog greets you whole heartedly even if you’ve only been gone two minutes. You see the mess and start ranting a bunch of human garble as your hands are trying to scoop up the poop. Your tone of voice is getting angry as the poop rolls off the paper and back onto the floor hitting you new leather shoes! It is your tone and body language that sets the pace for the dog’s reaction as he slinks away from you, his head seemingly hung low in guilt. “He knows what he’s done, right? Wrong!” The only thing the dog takes from this experience is that every time the person he adores walks through the door he gets hollered at. He has no idea why you are angry, rather he only associates that mood with you walking through the door. The best thing to do is greet him happily as the damage has already been done and you can’t turn back the clock, so just clean it up with no reaction. I have also heard of people who say you should rub his nose in it. So I pose these questions to them. “ If you poop and I rub your nose in it each time, wouldn’t you eventually start pooping in spots so I would not find it?”
Well, that is what your dog will start doing. To avoid an unpleasant greeting he will start pooping in your closet, your shoes, and behind furniture. Toilet training your puppy is the same as toilet training a two year old child, it takes time, patience, and repetition. Should your dog soil in the house use a solution of white vinegar and water to clean it up. Never use ammonia based cleaners as a dog’s urine is ammonia based and his nose will lead him back to that spot. There are also cleaning solutions on the market specifically for dog and cat markings.
basic obedeince training method for clicker www.clickerlessons.com
dog training tools
Training Collar:
Buy a Martingale collar for a medium to large size dog if your dog's neck is bigger than its head. Buy a harness for a toy type dog. The collar or harness is used in conjunction with the clicker for training and to keep the dog safely beside you. For the collar Measure your dog’s neck and add two inches to the size of the collar. For instance, your dog’s neck measures at twenty four inches, then you should purchase a twenty six inch collar. I use a harness on smaller dogs because pulling around the neck could cause damage to the trachea if done too hard. Measure the dog’s girth (around the chest) to get the proper fit of a harness.
Dog Clicker:
Thankfully unlike a few years ago, this can now be found at most pet stores for fewer than three dollars since the clicker training method has become more popular. The clicker is a small hand held box with a piece of metal inside. When the metal is depressed, you will hear a clicking sound. This is used as the “marker” for the dog. You will click as soon as the dog does the command you’ve asked of him. After the click you will reward him with the treat. Remember that the click is the ‘instant marker’ so you will use it as soon as your dog has done the command or is caught in the act of good behavior. The click is always more important than the treat. Before purchasing a clicker, know what your dog’s sound sensitive limits are. Take the dog to the pet store and test different clickers as some are not as loud as others.
Treats:
Treats are used for a reward when your dog has done what you have asked of it. (given after they hear the sound of the clicker.) Do not use regular dog biscuits, they crumble when chewed and the dog ends up sniffing out the crumbled pieces when you want his full attention on you. Buy soft treats that can be eaten quickly, or you can use cut up pieces of hot dog or chicken. I found that the hot dogs worked best as you can buy a large pack, freeze them, and defrost them as needed. They are also easier to cut into different sized pieces depending on the size of your dog. You may also want to purchase a treat carrier. This is a little bag that hooks onto your belt and holds a fair amount of treats. Since the click and reward have to come immediately after the dog has done what you asked, it is best to have the treats close at hand. Trying to hold treats in one hand, hold the leash in the other and hold the clicker can be a bit cumbersome so anything to lighten the load will help.
Six foot leash and twenty foot leash:
The six foot leash will be used for a majority of the commands and the twenty foot leash will be used for the ‘come’ or ‘here’ command. Both leashes are used in the testing of a Therapy Dog. Keep in mind that a cotton leash is easier on your hands when training. A leather or rope type leash can really make your hands sore after a training session.
Buy a Martingale collar for a medium to large size dog if your dog's neck is bigger than its head. Buy a harness for a toy type dog. The collar or harness is used in conjunction with the clicker for training and to keep the dog safely beside you. For the collar Measure your dog’s neck and add two inches to the size of the collar. For instance, your dog’s neck measures at twenty four inches, then you should purchase a twenty six inch collar. I use a harness on smaller dogs because pulling around the neck could cause damage to the trachea if done too hard. Measure the dog’s girth (around the chest) to get the proper fit of a harness.
Dog Clicker:
Thankfully unlike a few years ago, this can now be found at most pet stores for fewer than three dollars since the clicker training method has become more popular. The clicker is a small hand held box with a piece of metal inside. When the metal is depressed, you will hear a clicking sound. This is used as the “marker” for the dog. You will click as soon as the dog does the command you’ve asked of him. After the click you will reward him with the treat. Remember that the click is the ‘instant marker’ so you will use it as soon as your dog has done the command or is caught in the act of good behavior. The click is always more important than the treat. Before purchasing a clicker, know what your dog’s sound sensitive limits are. Take the dog to the pet store and test different clickers as some are not as loud as others.
Treats:
Treats are used for a reward when your dog has done what you have asked of it. (given after they hear the sound of the clicker.) Do not use regular dog biscuits, they crumble when chewed and the dog ends up sniffing out the crumbled pieces when you want his full attention on you. Buy soft treats that can be eaten quickly, or you can use cut up pieces of hot dog or chicken. I found that the hot dogs worked best as you can buy a large pack, freeze them, and defrost them as needed. They are also easier to cut into different sized pieces depending on the size of your dog. You may also want to purchase a treat carrier. This is a little bag that hooks onto your belt and holds a fair amount of treats. Since the click and reward have to come immediately after the dog has done what you asked, it is best to have the treats close at hand. Trying to hold treats in one hand, hold the leash in the other and hold the clicker can be a bit cumbersome so anything to lighten the load will help.
Six foot leash and twenty foot leash:
The six foot leash will be used for a majority of the commands and the twenty foot leash will be used for the ‘come’ or ‘here’ command. Both leashes are used in the testing of a Therapy Dog. Keep in mind that a cotton leash is easier on your hands when training. A leather or rope type leash can really make your hands sore after a training session.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Helping owners with vet bills
Because of the economy it is sometimes difficult for owners to get proper care for an ill pet or a pet in an emergency situation. This site came across my desk so I thought I would share it. http://www.speakingforspot.com/helppayingforveterinarycare.html
Thursday, May 7, 2009
When you travel by car
When you have to travel with your dog by car either for enjoyment or for the purpose such as a Therapy visit here are a couple of recommended items to think about.
Crate or seat belt: When traveling for therapy visits, crating your dog while in the car is a good idea. The dog is less likely to get underfoot when you’re driving, or cause you distractions. Also, should you have an unfortunate accident the dog will be safer in a crate and won’t become a projectile aiming at your head! If you decide that your car is not big enough for a crate then buy a seat belt made for dogs which can be found in most pet catalogs or stores. If you use a seat belt make sure to put the dog in the back seat. I am reminded of one of my trainees that actually got a ticket for having her dog in the front seat!
Outdoor Thermometer: A training tool for you.
“What’s this?” you ask. No, you are not in need of reading glasses, you are actually seeing the word thermometer and here’s why. During the summer months, or if you live where the climate is usually hot and sunny year round you’ll want to purchase an inexpensive thermometer and hang it in the area of the car where your dog usually sits. How many times have you been the sweltering passenger in the back seat of a car and felt that the driver was skimping on the air conditioning to save a little gas money? Oh, sure, the driver looks comfy with the air vent blowing on him meanwhile you are wiping your body down with a towel and wishing you wore better deodorant! Your car can quickly reach one hundred degrees on a hot day even with the windows cracked and those silly looking sun shades placed on the dashboard. That high temperature can quickly affect your dog and not in a good way, brain damage or death have been known to occur to a dog left in those conditions. While driving even with the air conditioner on in the front, the sweltering sun can still cause the back of a car or van to reach temperatures of at least eighty five degrees. So please before you put the dog in the car check the thermometer you have placed in the car and if necessary let your car run with the air on full blast before even thinking of putting your dog in there. If you feel the air conditioner is not sufficient enough to circulate the air to the back of the car buy one of those personal fans that plug into your car’s lighter to help move the air to where your dog sits. Just remember that awful time you were the sweat drenched passenger in the back seat, the difference is you could have complained, your dog doesn’t have that luxury. The same premise holds true during the cold winter months when your car can actually hold the cold air in like a refrigerator. So if you are taking your dog out in the winter make sure he is not left in the car without the heater on. I found that taking an extra set of keys is very helpful; you can leave a car running while locking the doors from intruders. I will also leave the car running with the air conditioner on during a short therapy visit in the summer months to keep the car cool. Obviously you would never leave the dog in a running car that is parked in a garage as asphyxiation could occur.
First Aide Kit:
As is true in everyday life for humans sometimes the unexpected happens to your dog as well. Keeping a first aide kit in your car for therapy visits and training classes is a good idea. The items mentioned here are for everyday minor cuts and abrasions.
Rolled Gauze, Cotton, Gauze pads, Gauze tape, Hydrogen Peroxide, Hydrocortisone Ointment,(first aide cream) Eye Wash, Scissors, Tweezers, Exam Gloves, Emergency Ice Pack, bottle of water, Nail trimmers, styp-tic powder (or you can use a small vial of flour), benadryl for an allergic reaction, and your vet’s name and telephone number.
Crate or seat belt: When traveling for therapy visits, crating your dog while in the car is a good idea. The dog is less likely to get underfoot when you’re driving, or cause you distractions. Also, should you have an unfortunate accident the dog will be safer in a crate and won’t become a projectile aiming at your head! If you decide that your car is not big enough for a crate then buy a seat belt made for dogs which can be found in most pet catalogs or stores. If you use a seat belt make sure to put the dog in the back seat. I am reminded of one of my trainees that actually got a ticket for having her dog in the front seat!
Outdoor Thermometer: A training tool for you.
“What’s this?” you ask. No, you are not in need of reading glasses, you are actually seeing the word thermometer and here’s why. During the summer months, or if you live where the climate is usually hot and sunny year round you’ll want to purchase an inexpensive thermometer and hang it in the area of the car where your dog usually sits. How many times have you been the sweltering passenger in the back seat of a car and felt that the driver was skimping on the air conditioning to save a little gas money? Oh, sure, the driver looks comfy with the air vent blowing on him meanwhile you are wiping your body down with a towel and wishing you wore better deodorant! Your car can quickly reach one hundred degrees on a hot day even with the windows cracked and those silly looking sun shades placed on the dashboard. That high temperature can quickly affect your dog and not in a good way, brain damage or death have been known to occur to a dog left in those conditions. While driving even with the air conditioner on in the front, the sweltering sun can still cause the back of a car or van to reach temperatures of at least eighty five degrees. So please before you put the dog in the car check the thermometer you have placed in the car and if necessary let your car run with the air on full blast before even thinking of putting your dog in there. If you feel the air conditioner is not sufficient enough to circulate the air to the back of the car buy one of those personal fans that plug into your car’s lighter to help move the air to where your dog sits. Just remember that awful time you were the sweat drenched passenger in the back seat, the difference is you could have complained, your dog doesn’t have that luxury. The same premise holds true during the cold winter months when your car can actually hold the cold air in like a refrigerator. So if you are taking your dog out in the winter make sure he is not left in the car without the heater on. I found that taking an extra set of keys is very helpful; you can leave a car running while locking the doors from intruders. I will also leave the car running with the air conditioner on during a short therapy visit in the summer months to keep the car cool. Obviously you would never leave the dog in a running car that is parked in a garage as asphyxiation could occur.
First Aide Kit:
As is true in everyday life for humans sometimes the unexpected happens to your dog as well. Keeping a first aide kit in your car for therapy visits and training classes is a good idea. The items mentioned here are for everyday minor cuts and abrasions.
Rolled Gauze, Cotton, Gauze pads, Gauze tape, Hydrogen Peroxide, Hydrocortisone Ointment,(first aide cream) Eye Wash, Scissors, Tweezers, Exam Gloves, Emergency Ice Pack, bottle of water, Nail trimmers, styp-tic powder (or you can use a small vial of flour), benadryl for an allergic reaction, and your vet’s name and telephone number.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
items you'll need for your new dog
Veterinary care:
Before you bring your new dog home be sure you have checked out the local Vets in your area. Find one that is close by and one you feel comfortable with. Ask to meet the Veterinarian in person before bringing your new dog home. I say this because it was a mistake that I made when I moved to a new State. Unfortunately I had gone to the local pound and spotted a young Bearded Collie I just had to have. In my excitement I hurried home to pick up a crate for his transportation. After loading up the crate I started to back out of my driveway when all of a sudden I heard a loud terrifying screech of agony. I jumped out of the car and found that I had just run over my beloved cat, Sam, who loved to ride in the car with me. I scooped her up and brought her to the only vet I had seen on the main highway. Once inside, Sam meowing in pain, and myself hysterical, I found that the Vet did not show much of a caring personality. He told us both to “shut up!” I don’t know, maybe he had a bad day, but after he put my cat’s broken leg in a cast that was bigger than my cat, I decided I’d better find another vet as quickly as possible. So talk to your friends and neighbors to see who they recommend. Like well and sick human examinations, the same is just as vital for your new dog. One of the prerequisites to belonging to a Therapy Dog group is a health check by your veterinarian. You will have to provide a record of the dog’s shots and fecal samples. Also if you buy a dog from a breeder they may only give you a certain amount of time to have the dog checked against health defects by your vet. Once you have found a vet, also find out where the nearest after hours vet clinic is and keep the phone and address handy. When you least expect it, you'll probably need it.
Crate:
Some people think it is horrible to put the dog in a crate when in fact if the dog is introduced correctly from the beginning he will view that crate as his den and will use it when the household becomes too distracting and he needs some down time. Placing the crate in the proper location is crucial to the way the dog will view his new den. Put the crate in a room where the family spends most of it’s time, not in an isolated area. Pups that howl or bark when they are in their crate do so because they are lonely. I also recommend that a crate be placed in the bedroom with you at night. I can’t tell you how many of my puppies cried at night but would immediately calm down as soon as they heard my voice, where as pups that were isolated in the kitchen or bathroom continued to cry throughout the night. By keeping him among the family he feels that his pack is nearby. Remember that a dog thinks it is always a member of a pack, whether it is with his litter mates or his new human family. The crate you purchase should be large enough for the dog to stand up in and turn around in when he becomes an adult dog. You should also take into consideration whether you will be putting the dog in a crate for transporting him to therapy visits. If so, you may want to look at the newer lightweight collapsible crates on the market today.
Dog Bed:
Don’t spend oodles of money on a cushy dog bed until you are sure that the dog is out of the chewing stage. An expensive bed will only end up in the garbage. Try using an old cotton blanket or towel first, one that has your scent on it. Check the towel or blanket often for loose threading. Any towel or blanket with loose threading should be discarded and replaced. You don’t want the threads to end up wrapped around your dog’s intestines. When you are sure your dog will use a bed for sleeping and not for chewing then you can buy him a bed fit for a king.
C) The right type of dog food:The wrong type of human food:
Again this is where doing your homework and research on the breed you want is important. Many pet food companies are now realizing that not all dog food is good for every breed. If you purchase a large breed dog you will want to put him on a dog food made for large breeds. It is important for a large dog to slow down the growth process while he is young to help prevent bone problems such as hip dysplasia later. Always ask the breeder what brand of dog food they currently have the puppy or dog on. Should you decide to go with another brand, you will need to introduce the new brand to the dog slowly to avoid stomach upset. You do this by adding a little each day to his old brand until he can fully tolerate the new brand. Please read the ingredients on the dog food you purchase. A brand that lists the first ingredient as chicken or lamb is probably a better brand than one that lists corn meal or other grains first. A well balanced dog food plays a major role in your dog’s health and appearance. Health and appearance play a major role in therapy dog work. Avoid human foods , especially fatty foods such as ham, pork, steak, etc. These can cause pancreatitis in dogs.
) Foods and Chemicals that can be deadly for your dog:
Given the fact that puppies seem to unknowingly seek out everything that is bad for them I have made a list of the most common house hold foods and items that, at the very least will make your dog sick, and at the very worst, will kill him. I mention this because so many times on my therapy visits the resident’s family is visiting. Usually the family brings with them sweets, or home cooked meals. Even the best trained dog can wane with the smell of pot roast in the air! If you suspect your dog has gotten into any of these items call your vet immediately. If your vet is not available here is the number to the ASPCA Poison Control Center hotline, 1-888-426-4435. Someone is available twenty four hours a day seven days a week. Make sure to have a credit card handy as they may charge you a fifty dollar consultation fee.
Chocolate, Tomatoes, Grapes /Raisins, Onions,garlic, Moldy food in trash, Coffee, Macadamia Nuts, Avocados, Garlic, Yeast Dough, Alcohol, Orange peals, seeds from fruit such as apple seeds (contains arsenic)
Antifreeze, (sometimes found puddle on the ground in a parking lot) Potpourri, Nicotine, Vitamins, Iron pills, Ibuprofen, Tylenol, Household Cleaners, Mouse/Rat Poison, Glow Jewelry. (Glow jewelry is usually sold to children at fairs or carnivals.)
Keep in mind that if the pup gets into a chemical/cleaner you don't want to induce vomiting as it can cause just as much damage when it is vomited back up. IF the dog gets into medication then you will want to induce vomiting and bring the dog to your vet for supportive care. To induce vomiting use 3% hydrogen peroxide , one teaspoon per ten pounds of body weight on the back of the tongue. The dog should vomit within fifteen minutes
Dog bowls:
Stainless steel bowls work the best. A plastic bowl can easily be chewed and ingested by a teething puppy causing bowl obstruction or upset stomachs, where as stainless steel bowls are for the most part un-chewable and can be placed in the dishwasher for cleaning. However if your pup happens to be the type that inhales his food then a plastic bowls with cylinders in it can slow down the eating process. If you’ve purchased a large breed dog, get a dish holder that can be raised up off the ground as your dog grows. I have found through trial and error, a dog, such as a Newfoundland that loves water, will play in the bowl of water that lay on the floor making it his personal pool rather than a drinking dish! After many months of lugging the Shop Vac around sucking up water messes I finally got wise and purchased a raised bowl! While residents at health care facilities do not usually have bowls of water lying around, there are sometimes potty pans on a chair or near a bed. If a dog will drink from a toilet…well, you know!
Proper leash and collar:
The leash should be six feet long, one inch thick, and made of cotton as it will be easier on your hands when training. You should also purchase a twenty foot lead made of cotton for training purposes. The daily use collar should be a buckle or snap collar, not a choke chain. Too many owners put a choke chain on their dog and come home to find that the dog has hung itself to death. The ideal collar is a Martingale training collar which is usually used for Greyhounds as their neck and head are smaller than their body. While I do not receive compensation for products I may mention , I will pass along a brand name that I found worked best for me hoping it will save you time and wasted money. Alpine or Lupine makes a good martingale collar and leash. You can find both leashes and collars at your local pet store or in a dog catalog. Another advantage to these products is that they are guaranteed for life, so even if your dog chews through it, it will be replaced for free. With seven dogs, I have replaced many leashes!
Toys, toys, toys!
A young pup will have the need to chew however it is vital that you monitor this closely as they have a tendency to not only chew, but also swallow what they shouldn't and this leaves open the possibility of an intestinal obstruction which can become a very costly operation. Raw hides, pig ears, greenies, bones, stuffed toys , clothing, squeak toys have all been known to cause a problem. Invest in strong chew toys such as the Kong or Nylabone bones that do not come apart easily. Kongs can be stuffed with cream cheese or peanut butter giving the dog a more satisfying chew toy. When they are frozen with the ingredients they last longer and satisfy the painful gums of teething. They are also dishwasher safe. Frozen bagels are also a good choice for teething dogs. Any toy that seems to be falling apart should be thrown out.
Outside Run:
If your property is not fenced you will need a safe place to shelter the dog outside when you cannot be with him. By a safe place I do not mean tied to a tree. Not only is that detrimental to a dog’s mind but his health as well. Make or purchase a dog pen. A sturdy pen will ensure that no other animal has access to him and keep him safe from harms way. His pen should have adequate room to run, shelter, and be placed in an area where it will get sun and shade throughout the day. If you put the pen in a shaded damp area you are inviting fleas to live with him. Fleas do not care for dry sunny areas. Fleas and therapy work do not go together well! It would take just one person to complain about getting bit by fleas and a facility may ask you not to come back.
Also if your dog has to be housed outside for part of the day make sure the water supply is plentiful. For the spring and summer months I recommend a water dish that hooks up to the hose which insures that your dog will have plenty of water should you be out later than expected. You can find them in pet stores and at Wal-Mart for about fifteen dollars. If you are worried about the dog eating through the hose connected to the dish I found that sliding the hose through an inexpensive piece of P.V.C. piping helps. For the fall and winter months I recommend a heated water dish. This keeps the water from freezing in cold temperatures. The electric cord attached to the dish is encircled with metal coil so the dog cannot chew through it. But again, if you are worried, you can put it through a piece of P.V.C. pipe. You can also find this bowl at Wal-Mart or in a dog catalog for about twenty five dollars.
I do not recommend that the dog spend every waking hour in a pen for the same reason they should not be tied to a tree. The object of a pen is to keep the dog safe from harm when you cannot be with him, not to make it his living quarters. If you do not want a dog in the home then get a Gerbil!
There are many types of invisible fencing on the market today. If you decide to go with an invisible type fence please be sure to do your homework. I have heard of situations where the collar that is worn in conjunction with invisible fence has malfunctioned, thereby continuously shocking the unsuspecting pooch. Personally I don’t care to have my dog punished for being outside which is what your dog will surely learn with a malfunctioning collar. If you decide to go this route, check the collar often to insure it is working properly. Also keep in mind that the receiver collar that must be worn in conjunction with an invisible fence is usually the only collar your dog can wear. Any other collar placed on the dog while wearing the receiving collar could shock the dog. There are dogs that will at any cost jump right through the fence whether they get shocked or not, thereby ending up loose in the neighborhood. This means your dog is running free with no ID tags! If you really think an invisible fence is what you want, then take a Sharpie permanent marker and write your telephone number on the receiver collar itself so anyone who finds your pooch can call you. As a general rule I use a Sharpie on all of my collars. ID tags are only as good as the collar they stay attached to and with seven rough playing dogs I find the tags are usually pulled off and spread out across the lawn.
Helpful Hint: Should you find that your pooch has extra energy and can easily jump or climb out of the pen, try taking chicken wire or garden fencing and placing it at the top of the pen bending it into the pen slightly at the top to give the dog the visual effect that the top of the pen is also fenced in. For the digger that tries to escape under the pen, bury rail road ties under the pens borders.
Tooth brush, tooth paste & nail trimmers:
Buy a dog toothbrush and toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste on a dog. Brushing your dog’s teeth is essential to its health care and should become as much of a routine as brushing the dog’s fur. Plaque and tarter buildup can cause infections, pain, or the loss of teeth. Not to mention the amount of money you will spend should the dog need dental work. Also, many residents I visit like to give the dog a kiss and bad doggy breath can be a real turn off!
Nail Trimmers:
Buy a sturdy pair of nail trimmers and some styp-tic powder from a pet supply store. I have found that nail trimmers sold at grocery stores do not last very long. Cutting your dogs nails is an important part of grooming for a therapy dog. You don’t want the dog lifting his paw for a shake and scratching a resident. Keep in mind how fragile an elderly or child’s skin is.
brushes,combs, shampoos, and dryers:
If you have a shot haired dog the soft brushes will probably do. If you have a dog with long hair or a double coat invest in a slicker brush and one tool I would not be without is the Mars Coat King. This strips out the older undercoat and helps with keeping matts at bay.Also included should be a flea comb for all breeds. Always use a dog shampoo as some human shampoos are too harsh on the fur and skin. If you need to use a flea shampoo go exactly by the directions, more is not better and can harm your dogs health. IF you find your dog having a bad reaction to a flea shampoo wash the shampoo off right away using a soap. Dawn dishwashing soap is good for this. You should also have a dog blow dryer as human dryers get too hot for the dogs skin. There are small ones such as the mighty duck and larger commercial ones which are better for dogs with a lot of hair.
Before you bring your new dog home be sure you have checked out the local Vets in your area. Find one that is close by and one you feel comfortable with. Ask to meet the Veterinarian in person before bringing your new dog home. I say this because it was a mistake that I made when I moved to a new State. Unfortunately I had gone to the local pound and spotted a young Bearded Collie I just had to have. In my excitement I hurried home to pick up a crate for his transportation. After loading up the crate I started to back out of my driveway when all of a sudden I heard a loud terrifying screech of agony. I jumped out of the car and found that I had just run over my beloved cat, Sam, who loved to ride in the car with me. I scooped her up and brought her to the only vet I had seen on the main highway. Once inside, Sam meowing in pain, and myself hysterical, I found that the Vet did not show much of a caring personality. He told us both to “shut up!” I don’t know, maybe he had a bad day, but after he put my cat’s broken leg in a cast that was bigger than my cat, I decided I’d better find another vet as quickly as possible. So talk to your friends and neighbors to see who they recommend. Like well and sick human examinations, the same is just as vital for your new dog. One of the prerequisites to belonging to a Therapy Dog group is a health check by your veterinarian. You will have to provide a record of the dog’s shots and fecal samples. Also if you buy a dog from a breeder they may only give you a certain amount of time to have the dog checked against health defects by your vet. Once you have found a vet, also find out where the nearest after hours vet clinic is and keep the phone and address handy. When you least expect it, you'll probably need it.
Crate:
Some people think it is horrible to put the dog in a crate when in fact if the dog is introduced correctly from the beginning he will view that crate as his den and will use it when the household becomes too distracting and he needs some down time. Placing the crate in the proper location is crucial to the way the dog will view his new den. Put the crate in a room where the family spends most of it’s time, not in an isolated area. Pups that howl or bark when they are in their crate do so because they are lonely. I also recommend that a crate be placed in the bedroom with you at night. I can’t tell you how many of my puppies cried at night but would immediately calm down as soon as they heard my voice, where as pups that were isolated in the kitchen or bathroom continued to cry throughout the night. By keeping him among the family he feels that his pack is nearby. Remember that a dog thinks it is always a member of a pack, whether it is with his litter mates or his new human family. The crate you purchase should be large enough for the dog to stand up in and turn around in when he becomes an adult dog. You should also take into consideration whether you will be putting the dog in a crate for transporting him to therapy visits. If so, you may want to look at the newer lightweight collapsible crates on the market today.
Dog Bed:
Don’t spend oodles of money on a cushy dog bed until you are sure that the dog is out of the chewing stage. An expensive bed will only end up in the garbage. Try using an old cotton blanket or towel first, one that has your scent on it. Check the towel or blanket often for loose threading. Any towel or blanket with loose threading should be discarded and replaced. You don’t want the threads to end up wrapped around your dog’s intestines. When you are sure your dog will use a bed for sleeping and not for chewing then you can buy him a bed fit for a king.
C) The right type of dog food:The wrong type of human food:
Again this is where doing your homework and research on the breed you want is important. Many pet food companies are now realizing that not all dog food is good for every breed. If you purchase a large breed dog you will want to put him on a dog food made for large breeds. It is important for a large dog to slow down the growth process while he is young to help prevent bone problems such as hip dysplasia later. Always ask the breeder what brand of dog food they currently have the puppy or dog on. Should you decide to go with another brand, you will need to introduce the new brand to the dog slowly to avoid stomach upset. You do this by adding a little each day to his old brand until he can fully tolerate the new brand. Please read the ingredients on the dog food you purchase. A brand that lists the first ingredient as chicken or lamb is probably a better brand than one that lists corn meal or other grains first. A well balanced dog food plays a major role in your dog’s health and appearance. Health and appearance play a major role in therapy dog work. Avoid human foods , especially fatty foods such as ham, pork, steak, etc. These can cause pancreatitis in dogs.
) Foods and Chemicals that can be deadly for your dog:
Given the fact that puppies seem to unknowingly seek out everything that is bad for them I have made a list of the most common house hold foods and items that, at the very least will make your dog sick, and at the very worst, will kill him. I mention this because so many times on my therapy visits the resident’s family is visiting. Usually the family brings with them sweets, or home cooked meals. Even the best trained dog can wane with the smell of pot roast in the air! If you suspect your dog has gotten into any of these items call your vet immediately. If your vet is not available here is the number to the ASPCA Poison Control Center hotline, 1-888-426-4435. Someone is available twenty four hours a day seven days a week. Make sure to have a credit card handy as they may charge you a fifty dollar consultation fee.
Chocolate, Tomatoes, Grapes /Raisins, Onions,garlic, Moldy food in trash, Coffee, Macadamia Nuts, Avocados, Garlic, Yeast Dough, Alcohol, Orange peals, seeds from fruit such as apple seeds (contains arsenic)
Antifreeze, (sometimes found puddle on the ground in a parking lot) Potpourri, Nicotine, Vitamins, Iron pills, Ibuprofen, Tylenol, Household Cleaners, Mouse/Rat Poison, Glow Jewelry. (Glow jewelry is usually sold to children at fairs or carnivals.)
Keep in mind that if the pup gets into a chemical/cleaner you don't want to induce vomiting as it can cause just as much damage when it is vomited back up. IF the dog gets into medication then you will want to induce vomiting and bring the dog to your vet for supportive care. To induce vomiting use 3% hydrogen peroxide , one teaspoon per ten pounds of body weight on the back of the tongue. The dog should vomit within fifteen minutes
Dog bowls:
Stainless steel bowls work the best. A plastic bowl can easily be chewed and ingested by a teething puppy causing bowl obstruction or upset stomachs, where as stainless steel bowls are for the most part un-chewable and can be placed in the dishwasher for cleaning. However if your pup happens to be the type that inhales his food then a plastic bowls with cylinders in it can slow down the eating process. If you’ve purchased a large breed dog, get a dish holder that can be raised up off the ground as your dog grows. I have found through trial and error, a dog, such as a Newfoundland that loves water, will play in the bowl of water that lay on the floor making it his personal pool rather than a drinking dish! After many months of lugging the Shop Vac around sucking up water messes I finally got wise and purchased a raised bowl! While residents at health care facilities do not usually have bowls of water lying around, there are sometimes potty pans on a chair or near a bed. If a dog will drink from a toilet…well, you know!
Proper leash and collar:
The leash should be six feet long, one inch thick, and made of cotton as it will be easier on your hands when training. You should also purchase a twenty foot lead made of cotton for training purposes. The daily use collar should be a buckle or snap collar, not a choke chain. Too many owners put a choke chain on their dog and come home to find that the dog has hung itself to death. The ideal collar is a Martingale training collar which is usually used for Greyhounds as their neck and head are smaller than their body. While I do not receive compensation for products I may mention , I will pass along a brand name that I found worked best for me hoping it will save you time and wasted money. Alpine or Lupine makes a good martingale collar and leash. You can find both leashes and collars at your local pet store or in a dog catalog. Another advantage to these products is that they are guaranteed for life, so even if your dog chews through it, it will be replaced for free. With seven dogs, I have replaced many leashes!
Toys, toys, toys!
A young pup will have the need to chew however it is vital that you monitor this closely as they have a tendency to not only chew, but also swallow what they shouldn't and this leaves open the possibility of an intestinal obstruction which can become a very costly operation. Raw hides, pig ears, greenies, bones, stuffed toys , clothing, squeak toys have all been known to cause a problem. Invest in strong chew toys such as the Kong or Nylabone bones that do not come apart easily. Kongs can be stuffed with cream cheese or peanut butter giving the dog a more satisfying chew toy. When they are frozen with the ingredients they last longer and satisfy the painful gums of teething. They are also dishwasher safe. Frozen bagels are also a good choice for teething dogs. Any toy that seems to be falling apart should be thrown out.
Outside Run:
If your property is not fenced you will need a safe place to shelter the dog outside when you cannot be with him. By a safe place I do not mean tied to a tree. Not only is that detrimental to a dog’s mind but his health as well. Make or purchase a dog pen. A sturdy pen will ensure that no other animal has access to him and keep him safe from harms way. His pen should have adequate room to run, shelter, and be placed in an area where it will get sun and shade throughout the day. If you put the pen in a shaded damp area you are inviting fleas to live with him. Fleas do not care for dry sunny areas. Fleas and therapy work do not go together well! It would take just one person to complain about getting bit by fleas and a facility may ask you not to come back.
Also if your dog has to be housed outside for part of the day make sure the water supply is plentiful. For the spring and summer months I recommend a water dish that hooks up to the hose which insures that your dog will have plenty of water should you be out later than expected. You can find them in pet stores and at Wal-Mart for about fifteen dollars. If you are worried about the dog eating through the hose connected to the dish I found that sliding the hose through an inexpensive piece of P.V.C. piping helps. For the fall and winter months I recommend a heated water dish. This keeps the water from freezing in cold temperatures. The electric cord attached to the dish is encircled with metal coil so the dog cannot chew through it. But again, if you are worried, you can put it through a piece of P.V.C. pipe. You can also find this bowl at Wal-Mart or in a dog catalog for about twenty five dollars.
I do not recommend that the dog spend every waking hour in a pen for the same reason they should not be tied to a tree. The object of a pen is to keep the dog safe from harm when you cannot be with him, not to make it his living quarters. If you do not want a dog in the home then get a Gerbil!
There are many types of invisible fencing on the market today. If you decide to go with an invisible type fence please be sure to do your homework. I have heard of situations where the collar that is worn in conjunction with invisible fence has malfunctioned, thereby continuously shocking the unsuspecting pooch. Personally I don’t care to have my dog punished for being outside which is what your dog will surely learn with a malfunctioning collar. If you decide to go this route, check the collar often to insure it is working properly. Also keep in mind that the receiver collar that must be worn in conjunction with an invisible fence is usually the only collar your dog can wear. Any other collar placed on the dog while wearing the receiving collar could shock the dog. There are dogs that will at any cost jump right through the fence whether they get shocked or not, thereby ending up loose in the neighborhood. This means your dog is running free with no ID tags! If you really think an invisible fence is what you want, then take a Sharpie permanent marker and write your telephone number on the receiver collar itself so anyone who finds your pooch can call you. As a general rule I use a Sharpie on all of my collars. ID tags are only as good as the collar they stay attached to and with seven rough playing dogs I find the tags are usually pulled off and spread out across the lawn.
Helpful Hint: Should you find that your pooch has extra energy and can easily jump or climb out of the pen, try taking chicken wire or garden fencing and placing it at the top of the pen bending it into the pen slightly at the top to give the dog the visual effect that the top of the pen is also fenced in. For the digger that tries to escape under the pen, bury rail road ties under the pens borders.
Tooth brush, tooth paste & nail trimmers:
Buy a dog toothbrush and toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste on a dog. Brushing your dog’s teeth is essential to its health care and should become as much of a routine as brushing the dog’s fur. Plaque and tarter buildup can cause infections, pain, or the loss of teeth. Not to mention the amount of money you will spend should the dog need dental work. Also, many residents I visit like to give the dog a kiss and bad doggy breath can be a real turn off!
Nail Trimmers:
Buy a sturdy pair of nail trimmers and some styp-tic powder from a pet supply store. I have found that nail trimmers sold at grocery stores do not last very long. Cutting your dogs nails is an important part of grooming for a therapy dog. You don’t want the dog lifting his paw for a shake and scratching a resident. Keep in mind how fragile an elderly or child’s skin is.
brushes,combs, shampoos, and dryers:
If you have a shot haired dog the soft brushes will probably do. If you have a dog with long hair or a double coat invest in a slicker brush and one tool I would not be without is the Mars Coat King. This strips out the older undercoat and helps with keeping matts at bay.Also included should be a flea comb for all breeds. Always use a dog shampoo as some human shampoos are too harsh on the fur and skin. If you need to use a flea shampoo go exactly by the directions, more is not better and can harm your dogs health. IF you find your dog having a bad reaction to a flea shampoo wash the shampoo off right away using a soap. Dawn dishwashing soap is good for this. You should also have a dog blow dryer as human dryers get too hot for the dogs skin. There are small ones such as the mighty duck and larger commercial ones which are better for dogs with a lot of hair.
how to select the right dog or puppy
Don’t pick a dog or puppy that is hiding in the corner, he may be sick or have fear aggression. Fear aggressive dogs can be retrained with lots of patience but is that what you’re looking to do? If not trained properly a fear aggressive dog may bite the well meaning hand that tries to pet him. Pick a dog or puppy that comes to you, tail up high and wagging, ears perked and eyes looking at you. Drop a set of keys or bring a squeak toy to get the dogs attention. Is he curious to seek out the noise or is he frightened and running in the opposite direction? A dog that has his curiosity peeked but does not get overly excited is a good temperament dog, as is the dog that doesn’t run away from the noise but checks it out and acts as if it’s no big deal. Next clasp your hands around the puppy or small dog’s stomach and lift him off the ground a few inches holding him there for about forty seconds. Does he struggle to get away or does he just hang there without much objection? A puppy or dog that doesn’t fuss very much is also a good pick as it shows a calm submissive behavior. The next test is to pick up the pup or smaller dog and cradle him in your arm so that his belly is face up. For a larger dog have him lie down and roll him over on his back holding him gently there for thirty to forty seconds. Does he lay there calmly like a baby or does he struggle to get loose and turn himself over? If he lies there comfortably, you’ve got a good calm submissive dog. If he struggles and is unable to relax he may be displaying signs of dominance. A dog who feels he is dominant will take a firmer and more consistent handler. I don’t mean to dissuade anyone from getting the dog they fall in love with, I’m just saying that you will be in it for the long hall, how much time can you spend to work on such issues?
There is a good site for giving puppy temperament tests. Print off the test and take it with you when looking at a pup or older dog.
http://siriusdog.com/articles/volhard-puppy-aptitude-test.htm
There is a good site for giving puppy temperament tests. Print off the test and take it with you when looking at a pup or older dog.
http://siriusdog.com/articles/volhard-puppy-aptitude-test.htm
Monday, May 4, 2009
Where to purchase your dog or puppy
Now that you have an idea of what breed of dog you are looking for you’ll need to look at a good place to buy one from. Buy a dog from a reputable breeder if you’re looking for a pure bred dog. Ask the breeder if the parents of the dog are available for you to meet. The parents can tell you a lot about the puppies and seeing the litter of puppies together can tell you a lot about the one puppy you are looking to buy. How does the puppy you have your eye on interact with its littermates? Does it seem to be the leader or bully of the pack, Or does it interact with all the puppies in a calm manner? Also ask the breeder at what age they will relinquish the pups for sale. Most people put their pups on the market at the age of eight weeks old, however the age of twelve or thirteen weeks would be preferable as those weeks help the puppy learn important socialization skills from his littermates.
You may also want to look into breed rescues. Breed rescues take a specific dog breed and foster it until they can find a permanent home for them. Be ready to go through a thorough screening process as the rescues want to insure the dogs they place won’t end up back in their facility. A breed rescue may be able to tell you where the dog came from and what if any special attention is needed for the dog. You can find breed rescues on the internet and in some dog magazines.
Avoid pet stores at all cost! Many puppies sold in pet stores come from puppy mills and you are going to pay just as much if not more than you would if you went to a breeder directly. Puppy mills are run by people whose main interest is making money, not to improve upon the breed. Their dogs are often kept in small, fecal ridden wire pens, have little to no human contact, rarely get proper vet care, and are inbred among the dog family members. Breeding between sister and brother or mother and son are not uncommon practices. Also many puppies from pet stores end up with severe health problems that show up throughout its life. A good breeder can usually show you records of the parent’s health and give you certain guarantees against health problems that the breed is prone to. The reason I stress this is because if you pick up a puppy or dog that ends up with severe health problems your therapy visits may have to come to a sudden halt. It is not fair to put an ill dog through the commands of sit, down, then stand and heel if you’ve found he’s been diagnosed with hip dysplasia.
If you choose to adopt from your local pound you are most certainly preventing an inevitable death but they cannot give you any health guarantees. However if you are purchasing a mixed breed from the pound most of their health problems are bred out of them, thereby making them somewhat more sound from health defects. Beware though, that many people who buy purebred dogs from pet stores may also turn them into the pound if they find they can not care for the dog. Ask the pound to give you as much background information as possible on any purebred dog they are adopting out.
You may also want to look into breed rescues. Breed rescues take a specific dog breed and foster it until they can find a permanent home for them. Be ready to go through a thorough screening process as the rescues want to insure the dogs they place won’t end up back in their facility. A breed rescue may be able to tell you where the dog came from and what if any special attention is needed for the dog. You can find breed rescues on the internet and in some dog magazines.
Avoid pet stores at all cost! Many puppies sold in pet stores come from puppy mills and you are going to pay just as much if not more than you would if you went to a breeder directly. Puppy mills are run by people whose main interest is making money, not to improve upon the breed. Their dogs are often kept in small, fecal ridden wire pens, have little to no human contact, rarely get proper vet care, and are inbred among the dog family members. Breeding between sister and brother or mother and son are not uncommon practices. Also many puppies from pet stores end up with severe health problems that show up throughout its life. A good breeder can usually show you records of the parent’s health and give you certain guarantees against health problems that the breed is prone to. The reason I stress this is because if you pick up a puppy or dog that ends up with severe health problems your therapy visits may have to come to a sudden halt. It is not fair to put an ill dog through the commands of sit, down, then stand and heel if you’ve found he’s been diagnosed with hip dysplasia.
If you choose to adopt from your local pound you are most certainly preventing an inevitable death but they cannot give you any health guarantees. However if you are purchasing a mixed breed from the pound most of their health problems are bred out of them, thereby making them somewhat more sound from health defects. Beware though, that many people who buy purebred dogs from pet stores may also turn them into the pound if they find they can not care for the dog. Ask the pound to give you as much background information as possible on any purebred dog they are adopting out.
picking the right dog for the family & therapy dog work
Picking the right dog or puppy can be the key to success in any relationship. Therapy dog work can become mentally and in some cases physically exhausting for a dog. If you are an active person chances are you will want a dog that can keep up with you. When you and your dog have spent the day hiking you want to make sure that the dog will be physically able to make a scheduled therapy visit in the evening. On the other hand if you are not active and get a dog that lives for something to do, he may be too wound up to take on a therapy visit. Read up on the breed of dog you are interested in and match that breed to your life style. For example, while a Border Collie is smart and very good at agility it can become very destructive to your home and yard if not given the proper exercise and job to do. This same energy could be let loose during a visit, by jumping, pawing, or barking. While all dogs need and look forward to daily exercise with their owner, there are some breeds that do not require quite as much exercise. Make sure to do your homework when it comes to picking out the right breed for your family life style. This is also true with a mix breed dog that you may purchase from your local pound. A mix breed dog may carry many dog breeds all in one package. Ask the pound if they know what breeds of dog were mixed together that made up the particular dog you are looking at. Keep in mind that most breeds of dogs were bred to do a specific job. The Border Collie for instance, was bred as a herding dog, where as the Terrier type dog was bred as a rat dog. You can expect many holes in your yard if you pick a Terrier. They’re not being spiteful, just doing the job they were bred for. If you purchase a breed which was meant to hunt, like a German Short Haired Pointer you can expect that he is always on the prowl looking for game. A retrieving dog, such as the Labrador or Golden Retriever, has a great temperament but has the instinct to retrieve. Can you tolerate a dog that will most likely carry around your shoes and socks all day? Most importantly, will the dog be able to curb his natural desires while he is on a therapy visit if he hasn’t gotten his needs filled at home? This is why I stress that it is important to research the type of dog you want and to match it with your activity level and family lifestyle. There are plenty of books and web sites on different breeds, or you could go to a dog show and speak with an owner or handler who works with the breed you are interested in. Remember to keep in mind the grooming aspect of the breed you chose as well. Long haired dogs may require daily brushing and may need to be bathed once a month to keep shedding and tangled hair at a minimum. My therapy dogs are Newfoundlands and while their personalities are that of a gentle giant, the grooming required to keep them clean for a therapy visit is very time consuming even with daily brushing. They seem to have an attraction to mud and the rainy season exacerbates that delight even more! They also continuously drool, so on my therapy visits I must carry along kitchen towels to wipe their mouths. A shorter haired dog can easily be wiped down with baby wipes, non alcohol of course, to give it that fresh and clean look.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Danville Spring Fling
This past weekend Peter , Steeler and I enjoyed working at the SART booth at the Danville spring fling. Steeler and Chance are both mascots for the columbia/montour county animal response team so we try to bring one or the other (who ever is cleanest at the time!)to events to help draw in money for much needed supplies for shelter set up in case PA ever finds itself in an emergency situation. The last big need for a pet shelter was the flood of 2006, particularly for the Bloomsburg area, however SART was not yet activated.
Over the years I have found that when ever we do such events people always want to take the dog's picture, probably because they are not used to seeing such giant creatures! A reporter for the Press Enterprise once described Steeler in his article as a must see at the Bloomsburg Fair, as he put it, "Steeler's head was as big as a basketball and if he stood on two feet would probably be at least 6 foot tall." Since the dogs are actually working at these events we decided to use them in a way that would help SART make some money, so we decide to set up a nice backdrop and a chair or two for picture taking. This worked out very well. When we do a street fair the pictures can't be printed off on site as there is no electricity so what I do is set up the background and get the persons email address (or mailing address) Take the picture then email them a copy. This way they can print off as many as they like for friends and family. This year we had at least two repeat customers and they brought other family members for the same purpose. I mention this because there are many cute or unusual pups out there that may belong to a non profit organization and it is a good way to make some money for your organization. The backdrop is easy enough to make. I bought a large white table cloth at the dollar store , spray painted it two different shades of blue to give it a little depth, and hung it across a firing strip. The stand for the firing strip can be made of 2x4 's, but make sure the base is wider to accommodate giving the poles steadiness, or to place a brick or two on it to keep the backdrop steady. Drill two holes at the top of the
2x4's large enough to fit a six foot firing strip through and then hang the painted table cloth from the firing strip. This homemade backdrop can be easily moved from place to place as it all comes apart easily. When you take pictures that you are going to mail or email it is best to have a small wipe off board (or piece of white paper) which you will use to write the customers name on and take a picture of them holding the wipe off board, this ensures the right pictures go to the right customer. Also have a sign up sheet with the customers name, email address, and telephone number.
Above you will find a few of the pics we got this past weekend.
Also if you are interested in becoming a volunteer for a state animal response team in your county, or you just want to see what it's all about click on www.pasart.us , once on the page go to the map of PA. Click on the county that you are in and information will come up on who you need to contact in that county.
If you are not in the state of PA then go to www.sartusa.org
Here is an article I wrote for a very popular pet health website which can give you more of an insite to SART. BE sure to click on the pics at the top to see Steeler and Peter in action! http://www.petplace.com/dogs/help-during-disaster-state-animal-response-teams-sart/page1.aspx
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